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Routes in (e) Western Ship - River Face

Caffeine Free S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caffiene Free Finish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Yuk S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Nacho Libre S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Phone Call From Satan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Purple Headed Warrior S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slit Your Wrist S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Solar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time's Up S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Geoff Weigand
Page Views: 1,261 total, 12/month
Shared By: ferrells on Apr 13, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

An opening violent move cedes to a thirty foot 5.7 solo (could place a hand sized piece with a 48" runner, I think. A fall from this could ground you from fifty feet.). Atop this little wall, clip in, sit, and get psyched for the upper wall, which has some great movement.
The crimps for hands are satisfyingly small, and the multitude of small, but sharp, footholds allow artistry. I would not be surprised to see ten different people climb this ten different ways.

Location

Starts on the same moves as Slit Your Wrist, but escapes right and up the from-the-ground-obvious 5.7 big hands crack/layback. Then balance and crimp your way through the headwall. Hai-yah!

Protection

Draws, currently in situ. Watch out, these babies have seen some weather.

Photos

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
Pretty sure I only pulled on one slopey crimp on the whole route and overall thought the route was actually a pretty fun project. The 11+ for the start given in the Watt's guide is a joke. Easily the hardest individual moves are in the first couple of bolts. Mar 30, 2017
T Banch
Aspen, CO
T Banch   Aspen, CO
Cool video

vimeo.com/37417090 Sep 25, 2013
C Miller   CA  
On-sighted by Scott Franklin in 1989. Aug 3, 2013
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
The first ascent was by Geoff Weigand. Mar 22, 2013
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
This route is nice and tall, with great position, great rock, and shade. Unfortunately, the climbing is kind of mundane. Get ready for slopey crimps, but nothing memorable (unless you fall!) Aug 13, 2011