Mountain Project Logo

Routes in White Wall

Dancing Girls T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face to Face S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lizard's Tail T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Return of The Jodi S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Think Pink T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Where's Michael...? S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
White Wall, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Michael Crowder
Page Views: 1,048 total, 10/month
Shared By: Davis13au on Apr 12, 2009
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a bolted route between Dancing Girls and Return of the Jodi. The bolts are a bit older (but still in good shape) so I'm guessing it's been there a while. I haven't found any information about this route or what it was named. It's not listed in the Dixie Cragger's Atlas. On Michael Crowder's topo of White Wall it's just a blank #5 with no info. I rated it 5.11a for now. We didn't finish it clean and had to move back over on to Return of the Jodi at the top because it was too wet. To me it seems harder than the 5.10s on White Wall. If anyone has any info about the route please share.

It basically starts in between Dancing Girls and Jodi under the first bolt. The first few moves are a scramble then the holds get scarce and pretty thin. There aren't too many options as it is pretty smooth near the bolts and in between this route and Jodi it's pretty smooth. The holds here are thinner than on Jodi or Think Pink. It basically goes straight up with the bolts to your left.

As you get closer to the slanting vertical crack that is to the left of Jodi we had to bail to the right back on to Return of the Jodi. It was still wet and there was no grip at all on the tiny ledges. According to Crowder's topo the route goes straight up keeping the crack just to your right. We could see the sequence of moves but it was too wet to do it.

Whatever it's name is it's not as straight forward or classic as Jodi but the moves are thinner and tougher. They are a bit reachy and in a few places you have to almost mantle the small holds to reach the next set. It's a tough route for sure and pretty fun.

Location

In between Dancing Girls and Return of the Jodi at almost the lowest point of White Wall.

Protection

It's bolted and it would be a pretty tough lead. You might need a few pieces of pro at the top. You could set up a top rope on top with some webbing but you can also use the anchor on top of Return of the Jodi. It's a bit of an angle and you'll end up swinging back under Jodi when you fall but it's manageable and not dangerous. The rope doesn't touch rock at all so the swing is not going to wear on your rope.

Photos

Harrison Laird
Davis, CA
Harrison Laird   Davis, CA
Cleaned on rappel after climbing Jodi and then toproped. The protection bolts on this climb are not safe and need to be replaced. They appear to be plated steel 5-piece sleeve anchors and have corroded significantly since the last time I was out there maybe a year and a half ago. Jan 19, 2017
Davis13au  
 
On request I've renamed this route "Where's Michael" after the FA. Michael, if you have a name for this one, or if anyone knows it, just let me know and I'll change it.

Thanks to Paul for cleaning and putting an anchor up. If this one gets some traffic and stays clean the trio of Jodi, Think, and this one will be a great one. Apr 5, 2010
Davis13au  
 
Where you able to go all the way up staying left of the crack at the top? When we first tried it it was so wet at the top you couldn't hold anything and we had to finish basically on Jodi. How was the top? The crux seemed to be in the middle where it blanks out a bit.

Glad to see folks giving it a try. Mar 9, 2010