Avg: 2 from 9 votes
Routes in White Wall
|Dancing Girls T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Face to Face S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Lizard's Tail T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Return of The Jodi S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Think Pink T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Where's Michael...? S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|White Wall, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Sport, TR, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||1,048 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Davis13au on Apr 12, 2009|
DescriptionThis is a bolted route between Dancing Girls and Return of the Jodi. The bolts are a bit older (but still in good shape) so I'm guessing it's been there a while. I haven't found any information about this route or what it was named. It's not listed in the Dixie Cragger's Atlas. On Michael Crowder's topo of White Wall it's just a blank #5 with no info. I rated it 5.11a for now. We didn't finish it clean and had to move back over on to Return of the Jodi at the top because it was too wet. To me it seems harder than the 5.10s on White Wall. If anyone has any info about the route please share.
It basically starts in between Dancing Girls and Jodi under the first bolt. The first few moves are a scramble then the holds get scarce and pretty thin. There aren't too many options as it is pretty smooth near the bolts and in between this route and Jodi it's pretty smooth. The holds here are thinner than on Jodi or Think Pink. It basically goes straight up with the bolts to your left.
As you get closer to the slanting vertical crack that is to the left of Jodi we had to bail to the right back on to Return of the Jodi. It was still wet and there was no grip at all on the tiny ledges. According to Crowder's topo the route goes straight up keeping the crack just to your right. We could see the sequence of moves but it was too wet to do it.
Whatever it's name is it's not as straight forward or classic as Jodi but the moves are thinner and tougher. They are a bit reachy and in a few places you have to almost mantle the small holds to reach the next set. It's a tough route for sure and pretty fun.