PRINT: Rock Climb Pleasant Dreams, Northern Arizona

Pleasant Dreams

5.9+, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.1 from 174 votes
FA: Leo Henson
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Area > Pit (aka Le Pet… > (N) The Son Tower aka…

Access Issue: Annual Nesting Closure Details

The following areas/routes will be CLOSED for nesting owls March 1st - August 31st:
Nose Rock (all routes)
The Shooting Gallery (all routes)
Bedrock (all routes)
Pulse Roof (all routes)
"Shock Treatment" (farthest left route on the White Wall)

Note: Intentionally disturbing protected species is a Federal and State crime.

The following routes on the White Wall will be CLOSED for nesting falcons April 1st - August 31st:
"Shock Treatment"
"No Joke" (and all variations)
"Total Recall" (and all variations)
"Fruit Bowl"

The USFS will be frequently monitoring the Peregrine Falcons so that they can open areas as soon as possible. Successful partnership with the Forest Service biologists has allowed for closure of select routes, instead of the entire walls or crags, and we ask that climbers adhere to these closures. If you have questions, concerns, or would like to report a bird sighting, please reach out to the Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition at nazcc@nazcc.org or the US Forest Service @ 928-526-0866 and ask to speak with a biologist.

Description

Climbs the main face of the tower. Crux is the lower section to the first ledge.

There is a two bolt anchor at the first ledge but the climb continues to the top.

The alternate exit is to the left at the roof but no fixed anchor.

Location

The main face of the Sun Tower

Protection

7 bolts to chain anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

You can be 5'2", en releve, with a stick fully extended and still not be able to reach the first bolt.

Chains at the Topout of "Pleasant Dreams" after going climbers right of the roof. (Towards "Sunshine Daydreams"

bottom half of Son Tower

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jack Emery
Santa Fe, NM

The alternative exit to the left at the the top of this climb does not have fixed anchors. If you do the move over the roof (alternative exit) one would have to belay a second climber from above to clean the gear. After hanging on the last bolt on the roof I decided to downclimb, unclip and move to the anchors on Sunshine Daydream. this is where I realized that there are chains to the the left of Sunshine Daydream that are apparently for Pleasant Dreams. If you want to climb to this set of chains do not move to the bolt on the overhang, instead move up right towards Sunshine Daydream. Expect a lot of rope drag. Overall the climbing was not all that enjoyable. Nov 24, 2012

Christian Shope
Tacoma, WA

5.9 PG13

I had a similar experience to jack. After completing the moves to the left I found that the best way to clean the route was to pull the entire rope up and rappel from the chains on the right. This made it necessary to swing far to the left to clean. I would not Belay someone from the top of the left option personally.

It is best to finish to the right.

However, it is very fun, but also scary and tedious to finish to the left. Otherwise it isn't worth leading to the right. Just climb the short version. Feb 8, 2013

Paul Zander
San Leandro, CA

5.9+

In my opinion it would make much more sense to have the anchors for this climb over the left exit. It is more direct and more fun. Sep 5, 2013

Elias Jordan
Mazama, WA

5.9+

When wanting to exit on the left to pull the roof one can use the long chains from "Not Your Average Joe" on the back of the tower to set up a top-belay. Another note, the roof is well protected with a bolt at the lip, and the roof has very positive holds & good feet. Mar 16, 2014

Christopher Parke
Flagstaff, Arizona

A sub-par route with a lot of ledges. Crux is before the first set of chains, before you even start on the tower. Felt and looked chossy but everything seems to hold decently. Who knows for how long, though. The combination of ledges and chossy holds make this one a little bit sketchy. I exited to the right, although there was a definite exit to the left and there are even holds to make coming right over the roof a possible option as well it seemed. I would've tried the roof if I saw a bolt on it, didn't feel like committing. There are better routes at the pit but this is still worth trying if you haven't. Jun 21, 2014

NAZ CC
Flagstaff, AZ

The NAZCC (Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition) added Climb Tech mussy hooks to the lower anchors. In collaboration with the ASCA (American Safe Climbing Association) and the Access Fund, the NAZCC will continue further anchor improvements and re-bolting efforts throughout the region. If you'd like to support the cause, you can donate at nazcc.org. Jan 16, 2020

NAZ CC
Flagstaff, AZ

The NAZCC (Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition) replaced all lead bolts (except for an existing stainless 5-piece) with glue-ins on 2/26/22. This was made possible by generous donations from climbers like you, and with collaboration from the ASCA and the Access Fund. The NAZCC hopes to continue anchor improvements and re-bolting efforts throughout the region, but we need your help! Follow us and donate at nazcc.org Mar 2, 2022

Tim B 50

5.9 PG13

This route has several spots where a fall will cause you to impact a ledge. The climbing difficulty at these spots is easier than the initial wall and crux, but climber beware. Apr 25, 2024