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Routes in The Son Tower

Name Dropper, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Not Your Average Joe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Dreams S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
R.E.M. (Rapid Eye Movement) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine Daydream S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Leo Henson
Page Views: 7,386 total · 64/month
Shared By: CO_Michael on Apr 12, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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94 Opinions

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Description

Climbs the main face of the tower. Crux is the lower section to the first ledge.

There is a two bolt anchor at the first ledge but the climb continues to the top.

The alternate exit is to the left at the roof but no fixed anchor.

Location

The main face of the Sun Tower

Protection

7 bolts to chain anchor

Photos

Jack Emery
Santa Fe, NM
 
Jack Emery   Santa Fe, NM
 
The alternative exit to the left at the the top of this climb does not have fixed anchors. If you do the move over the roof (alternative exit) one would have to belay a second climber from above to clean the gear. After hanging on the last bolt on the roof I decided to downclimb, unclip and move to the anchors on Sunshine Daydream. this is where I realized that there are chains to the the left of Sunshine Daydream that are apparently for Pleasant Dreams. If you want to climb to this set of chains do not move to the bolt on the overhang, instead move up right towards Sunshine Daydream. Expect a lot of rope drag. Overall the climbing was not all that enjoyable. Nov 24, 2012
Shope Shope
Traveler
  5.9 PG13
Shope Shope   Traveler
  5.9 PG13
I had a similar experience to jack. After completing the moves to the left I found that the best way to clean the route was to pull the entire rope up and rappel from the chains on the right. This made it necessary to swing far to the left to clean. I would not Belay someone from the top of the left option personally.

It is best to finish to the right.

However, it is very fun, but also scary and tedious to finish to the left. Otherwise it isn't worth leading to the right. Just climb the short version. Feb 8, 2013
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
  5.9+
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
  5.9+
In my opinion it would make much more sense to have the anchors for this climb over the left exit. It is more direct and more fun. Sep 5, 2013
Elias Jordan
Mazama, WA
  5.9+
Elias Jordan   Mazama, WA
  5.9+
When wanting to exit on the left to pull the roof one can use the long chains from "Not Your Average Joe" on the back of the tower to set up a top-belay. Another note, the roof is well protected with a bolt at the lip, and the roof has very positive holds & good feet. Mar 16, 2014
Christopher Parke
Flagstaff, Arizona
Christopher Parke   Flagstaff, Arizona
A sub-par route with a lot of ledges. Crux is before the first set of chains, before you even start on the tower. Felt and looked chossy but everything seems to hold decently. Who knows for how long, though. The combination of ledges and chossy holds make this one a little bit sketchy. I exited to the right, although there was a definite exit to the left and there are even holds to make coming right over the roof a possible option as well it seemed. I would've tried the roof if I saw a bolt on it, didn't feel like committing. There are better routes at the pit but this is still worth trying if you haven't. Jun 21, 2014

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