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Routes in The Penguins

Bolt Fund Depleted TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Goodbye Blue Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Little Lab Rat S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Penguello S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stem Cell Research S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuxedo Junction T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 9+ S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Who Says I'm Not? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: B. Bindner, E. Holland April 2009
Page Views: 124 total, 1/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on Apr 12, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route starts just to the right of the steep southeast arete, climbs up the face, and moves left around the arete to finish.

To descend, rappel from Mussy Hooks at the top of Tuxedo Junction.


To reach the start of this route, scramble up easy terrain toward the notch between the Iceberg and East Penguin.


6 bolts


Russ Walling
Russ Walling
Head up good rock for about 9 feet until you can traipse left out to the arete on the crumbliest feet you will see all day. Continue up the arete on sorta suspect rock to two bolt hangers for the anchor.

One way to skip some of the scramble of getting to the base of this route is to do Tuxedo Junction, then head up a few feet the anchor for this route. Hang a couple long slings on the bots and then rap into the base, do the route, then rap the Mussy Hooks on Tuxedo Junction to get back your packs. Route is sorta not worth the scramble to the base. Apr 15, 2017
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
Route finishes to (2) bolt hangers. The Mussey hooks for Tuxedo Junction are 10' to the left and down from the anchors. Jan 18, 2012