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Tuxedo Junction

5.7, Trad, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 1.6 from 7 votes
FA: E. Holland, B. Bindner
California > Sierra Eastside > Lone Pine Area > Alabama Hills > Alabama Hills S… > Penguins

Description

This route has two distinct sections, starting with a 5.7 crack and finishing with a 5.7 face.

Location

The Iceberg is located between the East and West Penguins. On the south face, start up a hand crack just to the left of a left-facing chimney. Climb up and left, finishing on the bolted face above.

Protection

Take a selection of small to medium pieces, up to 3 inch cams. Slings are useful, and draws to protect the bolted finish.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nurse Ratchet leads the first ascent of Tuxedo Junction (5.7) on the Iceberg
[Hide Photo] Nurse Ratchet leads the first ascent of Tuxedo Junction (5.7) on the Iceberg

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

munge
[Hide Comment] TR'd this today. Climbs better than it looks. I took a direct line on TR. The first move of which is loose, but from there the direct is on good rock. probably 5.9ish move? Descent is made from Mussy hooks or it's also possible to down climb a crack on the east face at very easy 5th class (also an easy way to set up a TR on this and "who says I'm not". Nov 29, 2009
Russ Walling
Flaky Foont, WI. Redacted…
 
[Hide Comment] Easy crack leads to chossy hollow edge pulling. Unless you are at your limit on such affairs, no crack pro is needed. If you are a wig master or want pro, take a few cams in the 1" to 3" range and a couple long slings. Not a full on 1 star route... I'd go a generous .788 stars on this one. Apr 15, 2017