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Routes in The Penguins

Bolt Fund Depleted TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Goodbye Blue Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Little Lab Rat S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Penguello S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stem Cell Research S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuxedo Junction T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 9+ S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Who Says I'm Not? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: E. Holland, B. Bindner
Page Views: 376 total, 4/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on Apr 12, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route has two distinct sections, starting with a 5.7 crack and finishing with a 5.7 face.

Location

The Iceberg is located between the East and West Penguins. On the south face, start up a hand crack just to the left of a left-facing chimney. Climb up and left, finishing on the bolted face above.

Protection

Take a selection of small to medium pieces, up to 3 inch cams. Slings are useful, and draws to protect the bolted finish.

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Easy crack leads to chossy hollow edge pulling. Unless you are at your limit on such affairs, no crack pro is needed. If you are a wig master or want pro, take a few cams in the 1" to 3" range and a couple long slings. Not a full on 1 star route... I'd go a generous .788 stars on this one. Apr 15, 2017
munge  
TR'd this today. Climbs better than it looks. I took a direct line on TR. The first move of which is loose, but from there the direct is on good rock. probably 5.9ish move? Descent is made from Mussy hooks or it's also possible to down climb a crack on the east face at very easy 5th class (also an easy way to set up a TR on this and "who says I'm not". Nov 29, 2009