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Routes in East Wall Inner (Exorcist Area)

Aero Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Antichrist (aka Small Town, Big Girls), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Aero TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Buenos Aires T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Casual T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chesire For President T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Doin' Life T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exorcist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hemroidic Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hueco Wall T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jaws T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Love Goddess S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Military Industrial Complex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nerd's Rump T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nurn's Romp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Que? T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rings Around Uranus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Search for Klingons T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smurf's Up T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
That T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thin Air T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Bolts Closer To Divorce T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trouble With Tribbles, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Unknown 2 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wacko Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
What T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: (TR) Kevin Thaw, 1988, FL: Hamish Morrison, Mike Rodriguez, Alan Bartlett, 1989
Page Views: 480 total, 5/month
Shared By: john durr on Apr 11, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Shenanigans like a stick clip help get the first bolt clipped. Jump or more shenanigans gain the first big hold. The crux for me was clipping the third bolt. An extendo-clip quick draw may be handy to overcome the 3rd bolt location issue.

Tall people rejoice.

Location

This is the short, juggy 3 bolt face right of the start of Exorcist and It.

Protection

3 great bolts, 1"-3" cams for belay. Follow the finger crack second half of It, 5.9 to the bolted rappel anchors of Exorcist to the left. One 60 meter rope just makes it.

Photos

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dnaiscool  
 
I followed Dave Tidwell here on a very cold day. Cranking the opening "Tall Person" moves I snapped my tips off the crimper and flayed all 4 knuckles into ragged shards. I had to take ten to stop the blood bath and tape the mess shut. Good name... Apr 12, 2015
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
2nd bolt is really spinning and was terrifying to climb above. Top bolt with bail link was also loose. I stemmed the corner near It for a few moves and then edged over /long finger tip reach across to the first jug. Big swing to a "gotcha b*tch" grab onto the first jug. Exciting! Dec 1, 2014
dgerb  
If you want to dyno to the sharp first hold, I suggest you tape the top joint of the middle fingers of your right hand. This will prevent you from flaying your fingers Theon Greyjoy style.

I didn't have enough daylight to climb the top half so I left a bail link on the third bolt. Enjoy! Nov 18, 2013