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Grama and the Green Suede Shoes
5.7,
Trad, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 1.9 from 79
votes
FA: Unknown, 1955
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Potash Rd
> Wall Street
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
Indian Creek 2019 info:
or the
linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Access Issue: Poop Alert!
Details
Recently there has been a rash of human poops along Wall Street. There are bathrooms in the campgrounds a half mile from popular crags here. Use them.
Description
Climb the obvious wide crack to the left of Lacto Mangulation. It's lower angle but wide which can make it akward. There are two anchor options if bringing up a second, either traverse to the chain anchors (climbers right) or run it out another fifty feet to a boulder that can be slung (couldn't find anything else).
Location
Part of the school room area, left of Lacto Mangulation. Find the low angle wide crack. Across the street from a "Parking" sign. Walk off to the climbers left avoiding kicking down rocks on the unsuspecting passerby. It's
Protection
Doubles of #3-5, no need for anything small.
![Standing at the anchors to the right of the wide crack]()
[Hide Photo] Standing at the anchors to the right of the wide crack
![Getting ready to sink a cam to clip in direct after my n00b belayer took me off to untangle the rope. What a mistake that was. Jeez. Circa 2001.]()
[Hide Photo] Getting ready to sink a cam to clip in direct after my n00b belayer took me off to untangle the rope. What a mistake that was. Jeez. Circa 2001.
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Los Angeles, CA
This was a challenging and risky climb without Camalot #4-5's, BUT it is absolutely possible.
So you have an idea of how it was possible, I was able to protect the route using #1-3 Camalots, #10-12 stoppers, draws, and double-length runners. The runners came in handy when I had to set pros deep within the narrow cracks within the obvious humongo crack. I gotta remind you that if you had #4-5's you wouldn't need to set your pro that deep in.
The first pro was set about 15 ft up. A minor crux before reaching second pro placement. Then a fearful crux with 20 ft of unprotected off-width. Calmly securing myself and moving on, the rest was easy. When I had a clear sight of the double bolt anchor (used for Unknown Slab or Slab #1) and was near the top, I was able to drop a the last cam. As I made my way to diagonally towards the anchor across the face, I could squeeze in a small stopper right around the lip.
Assuming you only got small pro, you could add med-lg TCUs to make your life easier.
Given this was an improvised climb, it was real fun and scary at the same time. Highly recommend larger cams. Definitely worth revisiting! May 23, 2013
Colorado Springs, CO
Burlington, VT