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Routes in East Side, Big Enchilada

Big Enchilada (Left Crack), The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Enchilada, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Jalapena S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black and Tan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheese Enchilada T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dihedrals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Huevos Verdes S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 5 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 6 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Route 7 T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 575 total · 5/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Apr 9, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

The namesake line at the crag is the Big Enchilada, the obvious crack splitting the most prominent roof high on the east side. It looks pretty big from below, but it isn't quite as big or as tough as Len's Roof at the Overlook.

The approach to the roof can be done in a couple of different ways. The easiest is to climb the right-facing corner that leads up to the Big Enchilada roof's left side. Better and more fun is to go straight up directly, following a thin seam beneath the roof (after your choice of easier starts- the thin hands crack on the prow is nice).

The roof itself protects really well with hand size and smaller cams. Turning the lip of the roof is the crux of the climb.

Step right to the anchor for Huevos Verdes, or continue up wide & easy cracks to the top of the cliff.

This climb is #2 Unnamed in Jemez Rock, but is definitely the Big Enchilada. The other crack near this one, the crack passing the roof on the left-hand side, and others even farther left, are wimpier variations that have been unofficially given condescending names such as "Chicken Enchilada" and "Cheese Enchilada", cause this big one's the only one that offers up more than most people can stomach.

Location

The center crack through the obvious roof.

This line is shown as #2 in Jemez Rock.

Protection

Cams up to 3", with doubles in the hand-sizes helpful. Bigger cams might also be placed, but aren't essential.

Photos

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