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Routes in Coyote Rocks

Sheepshagger Spire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Stout Wanker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Superpecker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swallows' Nest Spire T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Trickster, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Yipping Coyote Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Aid, 40 ft
FA: Trevor and Eddie Bowman 6/15/04
Page Views: 476 total, 5/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Apr 9, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

The "Siamese phallus" tower! A straightforward clean aid route up the obvious crack bisecting the spire’s west face. Has the best rock in the Coyote Rocks. The crack widens up top and can be free climbed to the ledge (single shut anchor here), where you can scamper carefully up hollow rock to the summit.

Location

Obvious tower from where you parked. It's the rightmost tower in the overview photo.

Protection

Single set of cams to 3" and stoppers, aiders, single cold shut anchor--needles-style rap or lower leader and counterweight-anchor for second.

Photos

Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
Nice work Clay, always thought that one should be a decent little free option. You should go back and scrub it up! And maybe one day I'll get back up there and clean up some of these other little choss heaps. Jul 24, 2017
Clay Stoner
Sheridan, Wy
 
Clay Stoner   Sheridan, Wy
 
FFA 7/23/2017 - Climbed on chipping feet and hollow features through precarious movement ending in a relieving hand jam. Takes good enough gear with small shallow cams (x4's, c3's, or mastercams) and stoppers for the balancing start. Felt 5.11- PG-13 free. With a single pass of cleaning it could possible have the PG-13 removed and be a 3 star free route. Great area to get out of the summer heat and enjoys some high elevation cragging! Jul 23, 2017