Type: Trad, Aid, 40 ft
FA: Trevor and Eddie Bowman 6/15/04
Page Views: 521 total · 4/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Apr 9, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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The "Siamese phallus" tower! A straightforward clean aid route up the obvious crack bisecting the spire’s west face. Has the best rock in the Coyote Rocks. The crack widens up top and can be free climbed to the ledge (single shut anchor here), where you can scamper carefully up hollow rock to the summit.


Obvious tower from where you parked. It's the rightmost tower in the overview photo.


Single set of cams to 3" and stoppers, aiders, single cold shut anchor--needles-style rap or lower leader and counterweight-anchor for second.


Clay Stoner
Sheridan, Wy
Clay Stoner   Sheridan, Wy
FFA 7/23/2017 - Climbed on chipping feet and hollow features through precarious movement ending in a relieving hand jam. Takes good enough gear with small shallow cams (x4's, c3's, or mastercams) and stoppers for the balancing start. Felt 5.11- PG-13 free. With a single pass of cleaning it could possible have the PG-13 removed and be a 3 star free route. Great area to get out of the summer heat and enjoys some high elevation cragging! Jul 23, 2017
Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8 C1
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8 C1
Nice work Clay, always thought that one should be a decent little free option. You should go back and scrub it up! And maybe one day I'll get back up there and clean up some of these other little choss heaps. Jul 24, 2017