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Golden Rule
5.11a/b,
Trad, 130 ft (39 m),
Avg: 3.7 from 15
votes
FA: Joe Lackey, Glen Ritter
N Carolina
> 2. Northern Mou…
> Linville Gorge
> Shortoff Mountain
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne… Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Shortoff Mountain South - Falcon Closure Lifted for 2021
Details
Description
Follow the diagonal up and left passing a pin(crux). Move slightly left, then climb straight up passing 3 bolts on great holds with big moves. Belay on a nice ledge with a tree. An absolutely brilliant pitch of climbing!
Location
This route is the 3rd pitch variation on Construction Job. At the top of the 2nd pitch belay, move up and left following a diagonal to its end. Blast straight up passing 3 bolts to easier ground and finally the summit.
Protection
Standard NC rack
![Passing the first crux at the pin heading to the first bolt. Noah DuVarney at the belay. Photo by Chris Rinehart]()
[Hide Photo] Passing the first crux at the pin heading to the first bolt. Noah DuVarney at the belay. Photo by Chris Rinehart
![Try not to pump out going for the third bolt, the terrain lets up shortly after. Photo by Chris Rinehart]()
[Hide Photo] Try not to pump out going for the third bolt, the terrain lets up shortly after. Photo by Chris Rinehart
![In easy jug land, and the exit near the end of Straight and Narrow.]()
[Hide Photo] In easy jug land, and the exit near the end of Straight and Narrow.
![Tyler O. off the belay and getting into the start of Golden Rule.]()
[Hide Photo] Tyler O. off the belay and getting into the start of Golden Rule.
![Exiting the steepness and using the rest after the last crux.]()
[Hide Photo] Exiting the steepness and using the rest after the last crux.
![Noah coming outta the last of the steep steep. Photo by Chris Rinehart]()
[Hide Photo] Noah coming outta the last of the steep steep. Photo by Chris Rinehart
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Currently Charlotte
After the battle, the jugs start to appear and you weave yourself up through the lichen fields. Good holds are bountiful. I went for the onsite, and it was a good battle. It felt hard, but the follower found some beta that I missed.
Go take it for a spin and see, its very safe. Sep 25, 2016
Charlotte, NC
The seam takes good small cams up to the pin. I placed a .5 in a horizontal at the start of the diagonal and then a couple more purple master cam size pieces before the pin. After that, you're on bolts making awesome lock-offs with high feet. Nov 22, 2016
Celo, NC
Beta: there’s a good right crimp above the first bolt and sloper that’s not very obvious from below that allows easier passage to the second bolt. There’s a good .3-.4 cam placement between bolts 2 and 3. Nov 17, 2017
Charlotte, NC
Charlotte, NC