Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Zipper Buttress

Bitch Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
California Dreamin' S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crouching Tony, Hidden Trundle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Git'er Done S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hair of the Dog S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hootenanny S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
PBR S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Planet Janet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Poster Child S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ramp Festival S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tube, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Zipper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jeff Achey
Page Views: 64 total, 1/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Apr 8, 2009
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Railroad Details

Description

Zipper is probably one of the best 5.11s in the canyon. The climb features sustained climbing, fun sequences, and great rock throughout.

Start by climbing up an initial easy section protected by one bolt before a wide horizontal break/crack that runs across the wall. Just above, is the second bolt in a gray rock bulge. Climb above this bolt into a sustained set of moves that take you past the next four bolts with the crux coming at the sixth bolt. Easier climbing leads to the top and the anchor. The middle section of this route can prove perplexing and even frustrating because many, or most, of the holds that look like jugs from below turn out to be horrible slopers. Instead, make great use of a series of sidepulls and pinches while constantly moving your feet around to make the best use of them. The climb doesn't offer any kind of decent rest until the last bolt. Enjoy.

Location

Zipper is the last climb before stepping across the gray limestone slab at the base of the wall. It starts about 20 feet left of The Tube.

Protection

7 bolts and anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
This is a really cool route that keeps building in difficulty and intensity as you go upwards. It started raining pretty heavy just before the crux, which definitely did not help with the slopers mentioned above. Man, those holds were more disappointing than prom night. You see them from below, and you are like "come to daddy!". "Ahh man, you've got to be kidding me, arrgghhh!". Pumpy, perplexing, and kind of tough to make yourself keep going a bit of a distance to that last bolt. Jul 13, 2011
D-Storm
 
D-Storm  
 
Great route, though its compact, tricky nature probably frustrates plenty of people. The onsight on this one, for me, seemed to take as much go-for-it as some Rifle 5.12s. I've repeated the route and I'm still not sure I found the best beta, which is nice to have at a local crag, as it keeps things interesting. May 19, 2010