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Routes in The Change Room

Change Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Friction Addiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Root Picker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Try Me T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tubby and His Pal T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Turbulence T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Valley of the Shadow of Death, The T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: A. Dunlop & J. McDonald. FFA Michael Crapo, Jason Crapo 24 June 2014
Page Views: 896 total, 8/month
Shared By: Marc-Andre on Apr 7, 2009 with updates
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

One of the hardest splitters in the area. An overhanging finger/thin hands crack in a great position high above road.

Pull bouldery moves over the lip to gain the splitter, then sustained off-size jamming in the overhanging crack leads the easier ground. Sick and pumpy!

Location

'Tubby and His Pal' is located on a large diamond shaped block easily visible from the road where the trail turns off. Can be approached from the top of 'Bigfoot' via a short scramble or by rapping in from above. Hike the trail towards the base of the 'Falcons Crest Wall' but traverse ledges east (right) when reaching the base of the wall. Follow these ledge to the end, flex up a rope in a corner and hike approx 2 minutes up the gully above. Follow and obvious ramp out of the gully right (east) and find the top of the route where the ramp flattens out. (trail approach approx 30 minutes)

Protection

Bomber protection the entire way. Bring several cams from finger to hand size and a few medium stoppers.

Photos

michael crapo
mission b.c.
5.12a
michael crapo   mission b.c.
5.12a
Amazing route! Got it last night with Jason. I did a bunch of trail work, added 5 fixed hand lines, and cleared the base of the route. Marc's approach description is very close, but it can be tricky to find the base of the route. At the end of the long hand line (orange)up the wet corner and into the timbers, the first huge tree to the right with tape is it. Step down and traverse right(7mm hand line)and up to the base. If you want to TR it, continue straight up from the big tree then trend right to the obvious clear top. There is a new chain anchor at the lip, in line with the route. Jun 25, 2014
Marc-Andre
Squamish, B.C
 
Marc-Andre   Squamish, B.C
 
Yes, it is an unknown gem. It probably has never been repeated, but I plan to go up there as soon as the weather gets good again and lead it. I just cleaned it off and cleared the access trails over the past two days. Apr 8, 2009
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
This sounds spectacular; I'd love to see a picture.... Apr 8, 2009