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The Chimney
5.7,
Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 26
votes
FA: unknown
Massachusetts
> Western MA
> Mormon Hollow
> Mormon Hollow - Left…
Description
This is the tight chimney, not quite a squeeze, that is situated about 50' left of the stone staircase on the left side of Africa Buttress. Climb inside the chimney from the base or face climb the outside for the lower half, get in the belly of the beast, and shimmy and thrutch your way to the top. An unusual route for the area and a must do.
Location
There are two large roofs at Mormon Hollow. This route climbs the wide crack on the left of the righthand roof (the "Africa Buttress").
Protection
There is no gear for the lower half of the route. Above that a single set of cams from 0.5" - 3" will protect in horizontal cracks. The route can be top roped off of trees if the runout is intimidating.
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Watertown, MA