Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Route 3

5.8+, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 40 votes
FA: unknown
California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Monica Mo… > Saddle Peak > Corpse Wall
Warning Access Issue: RAIN & WET ROCK DetailsDrop down

Description

Middle section of route feels a bit run out and wanders, looks like there are a couple of variations bolted on this route - but follow the left bolt line to the anchors. This is a fun route despite the wandering nature. I often wondered if the route was originally intended to be a mixed trad sport route as there are lots of cracks that could potentially be used for trad gear. Although, the rock is a sandstone/conglomerate and rock strength could be an issue.

Location

3rd route on wall from left - start is to the right of the big crack. Walk off or rappel.

Protection

6-7 bolts to 3 bolt anchors with rap rings - shares anchors with Route 1 and 2.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route #3.
[Hide Photo] Route #3.
Climber dealing with the small roof on Route #3.
[Hide Photo] Climber dealing with the small roof on Route #3.
Katarina up toward the top of Route #3 as the afternoon sky turned blue again after the overcast layer moved off.
[Hide Photo] Katarina up toward the top of Route #3 as the afternoon sky turned blue again after the overcast layer moved off.
Route #3 at the small roof.
[Hide Photo] Route #3 at the small roof.
Eddie leads Route #3
[Hide Photo] Eddie leads Route #3
Yvonne leads Route 3 on a slightly cool and slightly crowded Feb afternoon.
[Hide Photo] Yvonne leads Route 3 on a slightly cool and slightly crowded Feb afternoon.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Maidy Vasquez
Bishop, CA
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Route #3: Fun climb. Recommend climbing directly up the natural line to make this more enjoyable. Climb the small roof (use the right side 1st bolt) to the arete, then straight up the obvious face/cracks as nature intended. A little sporty in spots. Optional gear placements for the cracks, but the bolts are where you need them

Edit to add: Route 3 now has it's own anchor (chains).

Left-Gully Variation: (Now listed as the "Block Gully Route"). Clip the left side 1st bolt then head out left to 2 random bolts on the large blocks. (Kinda confusing). Apr 16, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Yeah...kind of confusing. Nov 3, 2019
[Hide Comment] Lead is a little sketchy with current protection. Highly recommend bringing along a #1 to prevent decking if a fall before the first bolt occurs. Jun 16, 2022