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Route 3
5.8+,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.2 from 40
votes
FA: unknown
California
> Los Angeles Basin
> Santa Monica Mo…
> Saddle Peak
> Corpse Wall
Access Issue: RAIN & WET ROCK
Details
Corpse Wall sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp, then do not climb.
Description
Middle section of route feels a bit run out and wanders, looks like there are a couple of variations bolted on this route - but follow the left bolt line to the anchors. This is a fun route despite the wandering nature. I often wondered if the route was originally intended to be a mixed trad sport route as there are lots of cracks that could potentially be used for trad gear. Although, the rock is a sandstone/conglomerate and rock strength could be an issue.
Location
3rd route on wall from left - start is to the right of the big crack. Walk off or rappel.
Protection
6-7 bolts to 3 bolt anchors with rap rings - shares anchors with Route 1 and 2.
[Hide Photo] Climber dealing with the small roof on Route #3.
[Hide Photo] Katarina up toward the top of Route #3 as the afternoon sky turned blue again after the overcast layer moved off.
[Hide Photo] Route #3 at the small roof.
[Hide Photo] Eddie leads Route #3
[Hide Photo] Yvonne leads Route 3 on a slightly cool and slightly crowded Feb afternoon.
Bishop, CA
Edit to add: Route 3 now has it's own anchor (chains).
Left-Gully Variation: (Now listed as the "Block Gully Route"). Clip the left side 1st bolt then head out left to 2 random bolts on the large blocks. (Kinda confusing). Apr 16, 2011
Small Town, USA