Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Aid, 650 ft (197 m), 6 pitches, Grade VI|
|FA:||Brad Jarrett, Brian Warshaw, John Slezak, 1995|
|Page Views:||4,855 total · 32/month|
|Shared By:||Joe Forrester on Apr 4, 2009|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
P1- Broke this honker of a pitch down into two pitches. P1a- Start in a right facing crack/roof system off the ground. Make sure to go through the roof and NOT around right. Follow rivets and beaks up. We changed leads and back-cleaned about mid-way through the rivet ladder in order to have enough rope to make it to the anchors. P1b- Use some ju-ju to bypass missing section of rivet ladder and then follow mostly clean aid up to a sloping belay ledge with 3 bolts.(210' total)
P2-"Free Gothic" pitch. This pitch will go free with some more cleaning. Otherwise, big gear "2" and up" takes you up to the next belay ledge(150')
P3-"A1 pitch" A bunch of the rivets have ripped on this pitch I believe. Regardless, bring some small beaks, a bunch of rivet hangers and a good eye for rivets and mantles.(140')
P4-"Money" Sweet bolt/rivet clip up wild climbing to the summit ridge(70').
P5- "The summit walk" Smear around the loosley attached alien head, aid up two bolts, and perform the doom mantle. This old 1/4"er could probably be replaced at some point.(fun time')
RAPS: Do a single rap down from the summit, reclimb past the alien head and then bomb down the route.