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Routes in The Sundeck

Mickey Mantle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sun King T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunny Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sunshine Daydream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top Rope TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 73 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Apr 4, 2009
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.

Details

Description

This route is just to the right of the prominent dark streak and about 8’ left of Mickey Mantle. There is an old bolt line up the middle of the face to the right; the hangers are long gone. So whether this climb was originally done as a top rope and later bolted, or the name comes from a time after the bolts were stripped, is unknown. The Mayr guide shows this line as following the flaring seams to the left of the bolt line. There are no pro opportunities in the seams. Start at the base of the seams, working directly up. There is an occasional hold on the face to the right. After the upper seam bends to the right, the climbing eases off and continues to the anchor, shared with Mickey Mantle. Rappel to descend.

Location

Just left of the rusty hangerless bolt line

Protection

Two bolt chain anchor; No pro available for leading

Photos

Bill Odenthal
Whittier,CA
Bill Odenthal   Whittier,CA
The old hangerless bolt line I believe is one that Rob Mulligan and I put up in the mid to late 80's. It was done on lead although we were accused of rap bolting it. If I remember right I believe we gave it a rating of hard 11 or maybe a 12. The crux if I remember right was getting past bolt #2. Don't remember now what we named it. Also don't think I could climb it now. Sep 24, 2013
I too remember this feeling pretty darn hard. Especially when compared to other 5.10's nearby. Jun 14, 2010
Or maybe I tried the hangerless bolt line? Dec 18, 2009
I tried this route 15 years ago and it did have hangers on it. However, it seemed hopelessly sandbagged and walked away from it. Apr 4, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
As I have no idea as to the history of this climb, I don’t know the reasoning behind the rating given (from the old topo sign next to the Big Rock trail and echoed in the Mayr guide). We flailed and hung and cussed our way up the seams – I’d rate that line as at least 5.10b/c crack climbing. To stay on the face climbing the old bolt line is excruciating and must be hard 5.11; I’d appreciate any input on this route. Apr 4, 2009