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Routes in El Cohete Lunar

Banana Frita T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1
Objetivo Luna T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,754 total, 17/month
Shared By: Ryan Huetter on Apr 4, 2009
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

This is a great route which follows an airy, exposed and natural line up the north pillar of El Cohete Lunar. The climbing is a mixture of splitter crack and vertical face climbing.
Pitch 1: Go all the way to the left along the large access ledge. Climb up to bolt anchor up beautiful right facing flake. 10b.
Pitch 2: Thin jams up to roof, traverse out and up. Keep moving up and left, following spaced out bolt line. Clip with LONG slings-drag can be crippling. 2 bolt anchor. 10c
Pitch 3: Straight up, face climbing on patina edges. Steep! Ends at gear belay on ledge. 10b
Pitch 4: 4th class with short 5.5 move to gain ledge on right side of gendarme. 1 bolt anchor, back up with gear.
Pitch 5: Stellar thin hands, hands and fists up corner. Belay atop saddle. 5.9+
Pitch 6: Out to exposed arete and climb up past bolt and around to single bolt belay. Have leader take camera with! 5.8
Pitch 7: Crux. Up face moves to base of roof. Place some extra pro below roof and jam up and over. Keep crimping to another 2 bolt anchor. 10+
Pitch 8: Single difficult move right off belay, pass one bolt and up to summit. Anchor/rap station on far side.
Decent: Single rope rap gets you down to notch, follow cairns around to backside where you will find one more 30 ft rap. Hike back down to base.

Linking pitches 4 & 5 or 5 & 6 is POSSIBLE, but will end up leaving you cursing the rope drag. Just pitch it out and enjoy the climbing!

Location

Far left side of El Cohete Lunar, along main access ledge. Enormous cairn marks the obvious start.

Protection

Nuts. Double rack to 3". One 4" piece and a handful of micros. A dozen draws. LOTS of slings.
John Gassel
Boston, MA
  5.10c
John Gassel   Boston, MA
  5.10c
Awesome route!

To me it felt like P2 was the crux pitch. It's pretty long and engaging with lots of different styles of climbing involved. Bring lots of draws for this one, it'll take gear and bolts.

P1 was tougher than expected. Pretty powerful and pumpy.

There is a new variation on P7 that goes essentially straight up (instead of going out left to the roof). This variation feels like about 6a. It's got some pretty decently spaced bolts but most of the holds are positive edges. Ran into some guys who have done the route 4 times before and they thought this new variation was better than the original pitch. I thought it was fun too.

Descent beta: After doing the fun rappel of the back side, don't follow your temptation to just hike off the gully to skiers left (when viewed from the top of the climb). Instead hike off that way for only a moment before climbing back up a short bit. Go through a notch. Start to follow cairns down and to the right at this point. You'll reach a slung block. Do one more short rappel from here to a broad ledge. Follow cairns, this time to the left and down around the backside. Jan 11, 2017
Dan Flynn
MA
 
Dan Flynn   MA  
 
Awesome route. Linked p 5-6 as described here with no great difficulty, such a fun arete!

Recommended descent... couldn't tell you. Probably down the cara banana face. My partner convinced me we should try to rap the route (with some down climbing easy sections). It worked... sort of... don't do it! Jan 23, 2014
Rob Dillon  
 
FA Michel Piola, I believe. Puts the please-U in pleasure climbing! Dec 16, 2011