All Locations > International > South America > Argentina > Rio Negro > San Carlos de Bar… > Frey > El Cohete Lunar
Avg: 3.8 from 17 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||1,828 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan Huetter on Apr 4, 2009|
|Admins:||Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra|
DescriptionThis is a great route which follows an airy, exposed and natural line up the north pillar of El Cohete Lunar. The climbing is a mixture of splitter crack and vertical face climbing.
Pitch 1: Go all the way to the left along the large access ledge. Climb up to bolt anchor up beautiful right facing flake. 10b.
Pitch 2: Thin jams up to roof, traverse out and up. Keep moving up and left, following spaced out bolt line. Clip with LONG slings-drag can be crippling. 2 bolt anchor. 10c
Pitch 3: Straight up, face climbing on patina edges. Steep! Ends at gear belay on ledge. 10b
Pitch 4: 4th class with short 5.5 move to gain ledge on right side of gendarme. 1 bolt anchor, back up with gear.
Pitch 5: Stellar thin hands, hands and fists up corner. Belay atop saddle. 5.9+
Pitch 6: Out to exposed arete and climb up past bolt and around to single bolt belay. Have leader take camera with! 5.8
Pitch 7: Crux. Up face moves to base of roof. Place some extra pro below roof and jam up and over. Keep crimping to another 2 bolt anchor. 10+
Pitch 8: Single difficult move right off belay, pass one bolt and up to summit. Anchor/rap station on far side.
Decent: Single rope rap gets you down to notch, follow cairns around to backside where you will find one more 30 ft rap. Hike back down to base.
Linking pitches 4 & 5 or 5 & 6 is POSSIBLE, but will end up leaving you cursing the rope drag. Just pitch it out and enjoy the climbing!