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The Perfect Lie Back
5.8,
Trad, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3.7 from 104
votes
FA: Bill Griffin, early 1980's
California
> Lake Tahoe
> Carson Pass Hig…
> Woodfords Canyon
> Fortress
> 6 - Liebacks Area
Description
If you walked up the sandy approach trail, this route will be just on your right. The first half is lie backing up a slab. The crack turns verticle at half way point, this is were the crux is.
Location
This is to the east of the alcove area's and to the west of the sun wall
[Hide Comment] My first lead and one sweet line. I think the crux is at the bottom but depending on your height it could be where the line goes vertical. Being 6 foot the vertical section was not that tough. Also, some really nice nut placements at the rests.
Jan 26, 2011
[Hide Comment] Great route. Quite an approach. Don't forget that since the route is mainly lieback, it can be tricky to inspect your placements. There is a great rest in the middle of route. It is a great opportunity to set a couple bomber placements before finishing the route.
Feb 18, 2013
[Hide Comment] I agree with the comments above that the crux is at the start, mainly because of the relative lack of feet and not being able to look at your gear. The moves up top are pretty easy, and you have a rest and bomber gear to do them unlike the laybacking at the start.
May 6, 2013
[Hide Comment] Agree that the crux is off the ground (no feet and tough to look for placement). Too many good feet when the climb turns vertical. I think it might be the only climb in Woodfords to truly have gotten "traffic." The bottom section is turning glossy where you put your feet~ good rubber helps!
Jun 18, 2014
[Hide Comment] I've seen 5.10+ leaders get pumped out placing too much pro down low. The good locks are there and you can spot your first placement from the ground. Don't over think it and relax. You've got this.
Jun 19, 2014
[Hide Comment] Yup, crux is the first 25 feet. If you got the huevos just run it out and cruz right up to a nice ledge rest stop to plug in pro. After that the route is cake.
Oct 30, 2015
Avg: 3.7 from 104
votes
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Takes mainly #.4-2 Camalots and I used a couple large nuts. Apr 26, 2009
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Needs to be longer! :D Dec 12, 2011
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