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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Bonnie Prudden, 1964
Page Views: 2,422 total, 23/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Apr 3, 2009
Admins: JSH

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Description

The Brat Direct is an exciting climb that will demand your attention. Among a few routes at the entrance of The Trapps, this gem stays well lit late into the day. Begin at the base of a large, broken, and obvious crack. Awkward climbing up and past a pin will keep your eyes wide open. Take a good rest, protect your next sequence of moves, and head up and right to a hidden blast hole. From this uneasy stance move over some lower angled rock to a small ledge. Get your balance and traverse left past another pin and top out on a large ledge before the hovering, yet solid boulder.

Location

The Brat Direct is about 3 minutes down trail from the bridge at the entrance of The Trapps. Its sits on the right side of the first and most distinguished face before heading down-hill.

Protection

A few pins protect this route. long slings, medium sized stoppers, and gear from a .3 to a #3 bd are useful. A large tree at the top can be used as an anchor. Walk off.

Photos

gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
A bit of a grunt near the bottom, eases up considerably as you ascend. Gear is PG May 8, 2012
kenr  
Often done as a Top-Rope. Several (non-Direct) variations are straightforward on TR which might be more fun than the Direct line given.
Perhaps the easiest "cheaters" route is to traverse way Left early before the obvious crux crack, then diagonal back up right, then traverse long Right just above the crux crack to a gentler slab. Up the slab, then Left to the final (unavoidable) high crux (? 5.6 ? choice of finger-strength on uninviting holds versus good footwork and balance).

Less-easy face-climbing variation is to go roughly straight up to the high crux - going roughly parallel to the Direct crack line, but about five feet to the Left of it.

(There's a harder finish on the face a few feet right of the final crux, and doubtless other harder variations at other heights.)

I've usually found that the obvious crack low crux has some interesting footwork and balance to get into it, but then the key move is just a tough grunt. Nice as a challenge, but it's the Variations that keep me + partners coming back to Brat every year or so. Mar 22, 2012