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Routes in Hole Wall

Black Beauty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue Heron S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Butthole Surfer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gray Expectations S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Rest for the Weary S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Within Range S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jeff Achey
Page Views: 45 total, 0/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Apr 2, 2009
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Black Beauty is a quality line on great, beautifully featured limestone. The guidebook only gives this one star but I thought this was a route very deserving of 3 stars.

Scramble up some low-angle, easy but chossy terrain to the first bolt. Start with steep climbing on good holds to a difficult crux at the third bolt which is best climbed to the left. This crux on its own is probably at least 11+. Above, the difficulty eases and you can get a good rest at some nice, big incut jugs. Finish on beautiful gray limestone with a difficult crux that the guidebook describes as "techno slab." I'm not sure what "techno slab" is but when I first encountered the crux I was completely stymied and a little miffed by how "weird" it felt, especially when there is a line of good holds 5-10 feet left. After figuring things out, incorporating a sequential sequence, I fell in love with this upper section. The rock is great and once you unlock the puzzle at the top it's a real treat.

Location

On the left side of the Hole Wall, about 50 feet right of Within Range.

Protection

8 bolts.

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