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Routes in 1. End Crags

Beginner's Blessing T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
End Route TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Layback T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tom’s Dilemma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 32 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,825 total, 27/month
Shared By: Ben Natusch on Apr 2, 2009
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

Layback follows the crack in the short and steep open book towards the left end of the End Crags.

Location

This climb is located in the open book towards the left end of the End Crags. Walk off to the left.

Protection

G/PG - protects well, carry a standard rack. There are trees at the top for anchors.

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.6
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.6
My recollection is the FA of this route, perhaps as a TR, was by members of the (then) Lowell Tech (now U Mass Lowell) outing club on the same day as "Tom's Dilemma" was led, circa 1966-67 or so.

BTW - I'm not sure a "Standard Rack" does include a #3 Camalot. I've usually considered a "Std Rack" to 'top out' at a #2, but agree it's a marginal "call". Maybe #3's are standard. I don't think we had anything larger than a 2" bong in '66 - '67, although the larger sizes had come out in the "Valley". Jan 12, 2017
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
I don't understand that comment about needing a big piece at all.... Perfectly good #1, #2, and #3 cam placements down low. The climb is perfectly G-rated with a standard rack up to a #3 cam. Nov 5, 2016
So a #4 cam, or even better, a hex/nut of that same size, protects the bottom. Then at the crux (second piece) you can work in a slightly smaller cam or passive.

I like this climb. It's awkward but I would call it a 5.5. I personally do not think this is harder than Tom's Dilemna. Aug 18, 2014
To lead this, you will want a VERY large piece at the bottom. It's almost an off-width down low. I had to downclimb and bail on my lead because I didn't have anything big. I don't even know if a #4 cam would work. Jul 7, 2014
Is there a chance this would be dry tomorrow after all the rain we've been having? Apr 5, 2014
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
If only this went on for 1000 more feet.... Nov 2, 2013
Read Januskiewiecz
New England
 
Read Januskiewiecz   New England
 
So much fun if this route is dry, you have no excuse not to climb it. Only used #3 and #2 Camalots in that order. Jun 23, 2011
Pal Pocsi
Budapest, Hungary
Pal Pocsi   Budapest, Hungary
I would recommend some larger size cams for protection on this route. I placed a #2 Black Diamond cam early on and wished I had more of the same size. I made do with my #1 and #3, but I couldn't really find good placements for smaller gear. Oct 6, 2009