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Monsterpiece Theatre

5.10d, Sport, 90 ft,  Avg: 3.8 from 8 votes
FA: Luke Newnham, Bryce Martin, Bryan Moore - 9 June 90
International > Oceania > New Zealand > North Island > Waikato and Kin… > Froggatt's Edge > Main Wall

Description

The other classic on the wall. Follows up the slab to the right of Terror Incognito, staying in the dihedral until right before the roof. Traverse left on thin technical moves to gain the lip of the roof and pull up and over right. Rest up, the final headwall provides adequate holds but you won’t get another chance to until the anchors.

Depending on how far left you traverse under the roof you could probably drop a letter grade off the rating. That said, I’ve climbed plenty of .11- sport in The States that was easier than this.

Location

Climbs up the slab/dihedral in the middle of the wall.

Protection

Retro-bolted, now sports 10 bolts and an anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking up at the slab dihedral that leads to the overhanging headwall.  This is definitely one of the best sport climbs on the North Island.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the slab dihedral that leads to the overhanging headwall. This is definitely one of the best sport climbs on the North Island.