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Routes in Mt. Everest

Kangshung Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Cameron Burns, Jesse Harvey, November 16, 1997
Page Views: 1,000 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Apr 1, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route has engaging climbing on thought-provoking rock. The crux is probably going over the little roof. If it seems harder than 5.8 then remember to stem. There are enough footholds to keep the climbing pretty tame. You can get a fair amount of gear in, though who knows how much of it would hold.

Location

The route goes up an obvious corner system that faces up toward Hurrah Pass. It's the only line on the formation that looks like it could be 5.8... See beta pic.

Protection

A set of cams and micro cams. I used a #6 Friend right before the roof. Pins (as stated in the Bjornstad guide) not needed.

Photos

Climbed these both last weekend. Ideal desert towers for when your partner has a broken leg. There's currently a fixed BD Specter at the roof of Everest--weird. Just 16 inches right is an excellent hand-size cam slot in perfect rock and and down a bit is the horizontal #6 Camalot.

In the interests of helping transition this tower to non-hammering:

1. Tricky mantel at start is unprotected but once stood up there's reasonable green/yellow/red Alien-size slot, then one move higher a perfect red Camalot (#1). This would hold a truck. At the roof the #2 Camalot up and right at the lip would hold an Acura. Entertaining moves getting above the roof, pulling on jugs cemented into the dirt

No pins needed!

K2 is cleaning up nicely. No pins needed here, either. The rock actually is less choss, more actual rock than on Everest. It's a bit steeper. Similar selection of cams, Two Yellow Aliens, a few other small-medium cams, #5 or #6 Camalot for the final move. A small-medium wire will give excellent pro for the crux (too bad I forgot them....doh). Everest is 5.8+, K2 a bit harder, 5.9+. Both fun climbs. Mar 10, 2014
Clayton Rardon
Yucca Valley, CA
Clayton Rardon   Yucca Valley, CA
Awesome!

Ben you're the most lazy roommate a guy could ask for, other than Fat Chop. Great beta. Sep 3, 2011
If you are as lazy as I, consider throwing a rope over the hangnail and jugging up to the notch. Once at the notch 5.5 to the top. Aug 21, 2011
Geoff Unger
Moab, UT
Geoff Unger   Moab, UT
I climbed Everest and K2. Freed both of them. Everest is 5.8 with weird gear and I thought K2 was 5.9 or 5.9+ R with a one bolt anchor on the summit. If you actually had to hang on the gear it probably would have been A2. I have a photo and can post a separate description if you want Ben. Nov 18, 2009
There is another small hoodoo adjacent to this formation. Sometime in the early 2000's I did the FA of the smaller adjacent hoodoo. It climbs a short line on the side that faces the Mt. Everest formation. I can't remember whether it used pitons or was clean, but I will try to find that information in my notes. It seems to me like it was A2-ish, mostly due to bad rock. Just another something to do on "waste days". I named this formation K2 to go along with the high mountain theme. On the summit there is some type of manky anchor, can't remember what it is; maybe two bolts, maybe not. If there is only one, feel free to put in another to create a nice anchor on the top. Apr 1, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Though Desert Rock III suggests bringing some pitons, I climbed it clean pretty easily on March 27, 2009. I doubt I was the first.

Desert Rock III also mentions two bolts on top. I didn't really look around for them, but I didn't see any. The summit block has 1" webbing and a section of rope around it. There are a couple leaver biners on the slings. Apr 1, 2009