PRINT: Rock Climb Rancid, Golden

Rancid

5.10b, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),

Avg: 2.3 from 10 votes
FA: Deaun Schovajsa/Dave Gottenborg, 1994?
Colorado > Golden > N Table Mountai… > Crater Crag of N Quarry

Access Issue: Please Obey Speed Limits & Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Rim Rock Trail at N. Table Mt. Park is closed Feb. through July 31 to protect raptor nesting territory and ground-nesting bird habitat.

It's likely few climber go there, but it may affect the adventurous.

Description

This involves thin, face climbing.

Location

This route is pictured and described in old Hubbel guide and described in new Haas guide and is actually located on the left side of Crater Crag/North Quarry Area's east-facing wall, and the Misty route and all, on the east face, nice shade in the afternoon during winter months. In Jason's guide he says it is 60 feet right of Cracking Up, but it is actually on the opposite, east side of the wall from the latter route. It is an easy mistake to make.

Protection

5 bolts/ no anchors up top/old pipe in rock summit.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Around the 5th bolt.

The route sends the middle of the east face via 5 bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Haas
Broomfield, CO

Bob, thanks for the correction. That is an easy mistake to make. There is in fact a bolted route 60ft right of Crackin' Up and it goes at about the same grade as this line. I emailed Deaun about it while we were working on the book and based on his email, it seemed like I got it right, but thanks again for the correct info. At the time, I looked into the true quarry and didn't see any bolts, but I guess I didn't inspect it close enough. Great contributions! Apr 11, 2009

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado

Watch for a bit of loose rock on this climb. There is a left finish that goes ~5.8. #4 & #5 BD wires and a #0.75 Camalot can make this feel well-protected, except for the very start. 48" slings or longer are useful for the top. Also, a #0.5 Camalot can backup the pipe.

Addendum: staying just left of the crack at the finish allows you to get some nice stems and make it a mellower finish. Thanks for the beta, Dave!

Apr 29, 2011