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Routes in Crater Crag of North Quarry

Crater Cat TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Debhedral TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Doug's Variation T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Fragile X TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gig, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Golden Arete S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Misty S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mountain Lion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rancid S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sending Choss TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Deaun Schovajsa/Dave Gottenborg, 1994?
Page Views: 899 total, 8/month
Shared By: bhoran on Apr 1, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This involves thin, face climbing.

Location

This route is pictured and described in old Hubbel guide and described in new Haas guide and is actually located on the left side of Crater Crag/North Quarry Area's east-facing wall, and the Misty route and all, on the east face, nice shade in the afternoon during winter months. In Jason's guide he says it is 60 feet right of Cracking Up, but it is actually on the opposite, east side of the wall from the latter route. It is an easy mistake to make.

Protection

5 bolts/ no anchors up top/old pipe in rock summit.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Watch for a bit of loose rock on this climb. There is a left finish that goes ~5.8. #4 & #5 BD wires and a #0.75 Camalot can make this feel well-protected, except for the very start. 48" slings or longer are useful for the top. Also, a #0.5 Camalot can backup the pipe.

Addendum: staying just left of the crack at the finish allows you to get some nice stems and make it a mellower finish. Thanks for the beta, Dave!

Apr 29, 2011
Bob, thanks for the correction. That is an easy mistake to make. There is in fact a bolted route 60ft right of Crackin' Up and it goes at about the same grade as this line. I emailed Deaun about it while we were working on the book and based on his email, it seemed like I got it right, but thanks again for the correct info. At the time, I looked into the true quarry and didn't see any bolts, but I guess I didn't inspect it close enough. Great contributions! Apr 11, 2009