Crux is before and just past the high first bolt that requires a few 5.10+ face moves. The rest of the route is sustained; most hand features are small, side-pull crimps and feet are mostly smears on small, slopey bulges on low angle face.
Move past 3 bolts, then be careful when doing final tricky moves (with your feet 3-4 feet above last bolt). Last 10+ feet after that are runout, but on easy and low angle, 5.7 terrain.
On Sugar Bun formation (on the mossy side) - To the right of Dirty Dog, route runs next to the arete of the formation.
4 bolts to bolted anchor
Off the Grid…
Sacramento, CA
Somewhere out West
I once met a guy who claimed climbing is too safe these days, yet he climbed with a rope and clipped all the bolts. If you really want to be hardcore, then go free solo something at your limit . . . without chalk. Jun 1, 2011
Somewhere out West
However, without turning this into another mindless thread on the topic of "to bolt or not to bolt," I wanted to make the point that many climbers seem to lament the "good old days" of dangerous climbing and scary runouts, but they aren't the ones pursuing this type of climbing anymore. I almost never see anyone on "Harding's Chimney" (while "Scheister" has a line) or "TM's Deviation" (not necessarily runout but quite spooky). Only the greats of climbing like Bachar and Reardon (to name just a few) actually practice the "climbing is dangerous" mentality (climbing at or near your limit with limited pro) and they've both regretably passed on. Jun 6, 2011
Off the Grid…
Placerville, CA