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Wintergreen

5.10c PG13, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 13 votes
FA: Paul Crawford and Jay Smith
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Sugarloaf Area > Sugarbun

Description

Crux is before and just past the high first bolt that requires a few 5.10+ face moves. The rest of the route is sustained; most hand features are small, side-pull crimps and feet are mostly smears on small, slopey bulges on low angle face.

Move past 3 bolts, then be careful when doing final tricky moves (with your feet 3-4 feet above last bolt). Last 10+ feet after that are runout, but on easy and low angle, 5.7 terrain.

Location

On Sugar Bun formation (on the mossy side) - To the right of Dirty Dog, route runs next to the arete of the formation.

Protection

4 bolts to bolted anchor

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Salamanizer Ski
Off the Grid…
  5.10c PG13
[Hide Comment] Because the route was put in ground up on lead and the FA felt the climbing above was too easy to justify a bolt... Which I agree with. Apr 30, 2009
[Hide Comment] but thats just not how it works. Feb 20, 2010
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] Aesthetics are relative. To some, bolts take away from the aesthetics, the experience, and challenge. Feb 25, 2010
Josh C
Somewhere out West
[Hide Comment] If you want to put a bolt in, then just do it. I doubt the bolt would ever be pulled on a climb like Wintergreen. And if you don't like the idea of adding a bolt then think about what you're fighting over. This isn't a Yosemite classic.

I once met a guy who claimed climbing is too safe these days, yet he climbed with a rope and clipped all the bolts. If you really want to be hardcore, then go free solo something at your limit . . . without chalk. Jun 1, 2011
[Hide Comment] Well said, caughtinside. If you're not willing to accept the risks that a climb offers don't climb the route. Jun 3, 2011
Josh C
Somewhere out West
[Hide Comment] I agree with you caughtinside and I think you articulate a climber's options better than most. I also like how Sugarloaf is mainly a traditional climbing area with a "traditional" bolted climbs.

However, without turning this into another mindless thread on the topic of "to bolt or not to bolt," I wanted to make the point that many climbers seem to lament the "good old days" of dangerous climbing and scary runouts, but they aren't the ones pursuing this type of climbing anymore. I almost never see anyone on "Harding's Chimney" (while "Scheister" has a line) or "TM's Deviation" (not necessarily runout but quite spooky). Only the greats of climbing like Bachar and Reardon (to name just a few) actually practice the "climbing is dangerous" mentality (climbing at or near your limit with limited pro) and they've both regretably passed on. Jun 6, 2011
Salamanizer Ski
Off the Grid…
  5.10c PG13
[Hide Comment] Josh, with due respect... truely. You have no idea what you're talking about. You're trying to compare apples to oranges. Wintergreen is nowhere near a "runnout death route", in fact I wouldn't even consider it to be runnout at all. People do climb "dangerous" routes all the time and "dangerous" is only a matter of perception and opinion anyway. People climb Hardings Chimney almost every day, it's "scary"(to some) runnout is what makes it classic. Same goes for Fantasia. Would you consider placing bolts on Fantasia because you perceive it to be dangerous and therefore unenjoyable? What about the less classic Fear No Evil or Telesis? The short stretch of easier climbing above the last bolt on Wintergreen is one of it's most enjoyable features... for me. I really do enjoy these types of routes, they focus my mental state and give a bit of excitement and commitment beyond just being high off the ground and pulling down hard. Without routes like these, even as insignificant as one might be, climbing for me wouldn't ever be the same. I wouldn't enjoy it nearly as much. And I'm sure you were just saying it without really suggesting anyone actually do so, but I would hope you or anyone else would never suggest to anyone that they just go around adding bolts to routes just because you think it should have more or is "unsafe" for you. We "all" climb for different reasons, and we "all" have to respect that. If not, we "all" loose. Jun 6, 2011
Aidan Maguire
Placerville, CA
[Hide Comment] Fun route and continuously tricky. Scrubbed clean March 2024. Still a bit mossy at the bottom but the upper half is great and anything your likely to use is clean. Mar 17, 2024