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Wind in the Willows

5.12d, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 60 votes
FA: Gary Slate, Marty Lewis, 1993
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Scheelite Canyo… > Planetarium / Gecko Wall

Description

This climb is very good! The first part is 11d, the second part adds a difficult crux and is quite sustained, at 12d.
The crux is particularly hard to onsight as you can't see where to go... It helps to make a battle plan from the last rest.

Location

This route starts on the farthest left bolt line on the wall. Spaceballs splits off left towards the arete while Wind in the Willows continues straight up the face.

Protection

Bolts, anchor at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking up @ the Wind and the Willows. Rope is up at the top anchors (12d)
[Hide Photo] Looking up @ the Wind and the Willows. Rope is up at the top anchors (12d)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] The first part (11d/12a) is worth doing alone, but the extension makes it a mega classic. The last slap to the top side pull makes for a dramatic red-point crux. Great in the summer shade because it starts right at the water and the wind keeps the holds crisp. Apr 1, 2013
Rick Ziegler
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Now sports steel cable draws for the entire route and a new bolt off the ground that can be stick clipped. Pine Creek top 10! Jun 28, 2018
Marty Lewis
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] First Ascent: Gary Slate, Marty Lewis, 1993. Feb 22, 2020