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Routes in Roadside Cragging

Dirt in Yer' Eye T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Terror Dreams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+
Yo Hammer, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Jason Kaplan 3/29/09
Page Views: 76 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jason Kaplan on Mar 30, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start on the ramp at the base and find the pockets/ ledges used to mantle up. I used a #4 at ground level to prevent rolling down the hill if I blew it (I had my partner tag it up to me once I got 2 blue aliens equalized with a screamer). Start traversing up and right as pictured, hopefully finding some pro worth a damn in the process(I used a red alien in a horizontal crack in some paralell blocks with a screamer, then a #1 and a #3 or 3.5 after that). Take care above this section (for the first 1/2 for that matter) as you are climbing around and then on some scary hollow mud. Above this you get some more decent rock for some small gear like a blue/black hybrid maybe a yellow red hybrid or red alien.

Work the decent crack above the mud up and get onto the ledge at it's top. I was terrified at this point so I threw in a 3/8 split shaft button head, as the big ledge I was on is detatched and I am looking at the crux. I drilled the hole in the best spot I could figure, and proceded to fall onto the stud (I fell 1/2 off the ledge, tipping over from the weight of the rack).

I dropped most of my extra gear on the ledge with 30 feet of slack tied to my tag line and bouldered out the crux taking only the gear I thought I could use above(I think it was like a #1 a #2 or 2, A 4 and a #3 or 2).***WARNING move by move beta follows for most of the remainder of this paragraph*** I figured out the crux by stemming more on the wall to my left, and using some key side pulls in the OW to my left. I then could get my foot onto the slopey knob and transition all the way back over to the right hand crack. At this point (I think during or after the transition)

you can get some gear (#1?) to keep you from decking on the ledge 5-10' below.

Above is some more strait forward hands upto OW crack climbing on decent rock, turning the lip to the saddle is kinda tough but well protected by a #4. There is a 3.5" X 3/8 rawl with a hanger and a 1/2 driven 3/8 split shaft Equalized with cordalette near the middle of the saddle for a rap point. (2 ropes get you down).

We attempted to summit the crooked looking tower but the wind was ripping. Eric got around the corner to the slabbish side of the tower and got a button head stud to aid off, but the wind thwarted any further progress. There is a summit still waiting to be bagged up there, only 15-20 feet kept us from it because of scary fast wind.

Location

Off the side of the road near one of the many creek crossings, will be on the left. Find it based on the pictures you can't miss it.

Protection

A set of hybrid aliens (blue/black and red/yellow specificly) double blue aliens, double red aliens, #1's, #2's, and #3's. Other then that a standard(single) rack from smallest aliens upto a #4 atleast. Something to tie off the stud at the crux(a thin or mid sized nut works well) Atleast 2/3 Screamers.

Photos

Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
Not yet... Maybe soon. Though I don't find it hard to imagine it sitting for a while, it's a little scary. Dec 24, 2010
nruea
. . . CO
nruea   . . . CO
So, did you ever top out on the "tower"? Oct 23, 2010
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
Just a FYI, this was my first time climbing at onion creek, and I have minimal desert free climbing experience under my belt. So the rating could be off. I first wanted to call it 5.8 or 5.9 to be safe and not over rate it, but my partner who has alot more free climbing experience in the desert thought mid 10's/ 11.... So I settled for 5.10. The crux and everything there after is well protected, but getting to it is a bit "PG" in spots.

Also this was my first FA, I tried to keep it proud by not bolting untill I felt it was a saftey concern. Also this was my first time ever placing a bolt for climbing and I opted to drill on lead by hand.

I wonder how it really rates? Any takers? Mar 31, 2009