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Routes in The Capstan

Just Right V7 7A+
Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) V9 7C
South Crack V3- 6A X
Trough Direct SDS, The V8 7B
West Face [The Capstan] TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Xander Oxman
Page Views: 1,615 total, 15/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Mar 30, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Xander Oxman established this problem a while back, and apparently since then a number of holds have eroded- but the problem has been re-opened. This is definitely an enjoyable line despite being somewhat of a link up between 'The Trough' (V4/5 from 1961!!) and 'Just Right'.

This problem begins down and right of 'Just Right'. Start with your left hand on a poor pinch, your right on a large pebble and you ass just barely off the ground. Reach right to a sharp crimp and continue through a series of power-moves until you reach the crimp-rail lip. Match here, and continue powering left on small crimps, with awkward feet until you reach the sloping pocket on 'Just Right'. Top out as for 'Just Right'.

Location

This lies on the Capstan Boulder next to Just Right.

Protection

Use le crash pad.

Photos

- No Photos -
There's a right hand sidepull to the right of the high sloper that makes establishing on the crimps a little less awkward. Made it there today, also hoping to put it in the bag soon, Cesar. Let's go take her down when the temps come! Oct 8, 2016
Cesar Valencia  
  V10
Tried this again today and still agree with Peter. This is sandbag at V9. Besides the crimps being terrible, the problem is quite awkward. I would say it's V10. I'm hoping to finish it off soon. Nov 9, 2013
Elliott Bates  
  V9
I found an alternate way to do this arete, which I found to be easier than matching on the crimp rail. Same start, but then from the slopy left hand dish low on the problem, I bump my right hand 2x to a good pinch (Peter uses this hold as a left hand crimp gaston in the vid). Then a cool move up and left to a small positive LH sidepull. Right heel and right hand goes to crimp rail, toss left to "just right" dish. Really cool movement this way and not awkward. Mar 17, 2013
kevin murphy
Lafayette, Colorado
kevin murphy   Lafayette, Colorado
Thanks for the videos, Peter. Mar 15, 2011
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
V10
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
V10
vimeo.com/21045582

This video shows an ascent of Just Right Direct from the shelf and an ascent of Daydreamer Direct. Mar 15, 2011
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
V10
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
V10
Sandbag at V9, definitely V10. Mar 10, 2011