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Routes in Middle Hawksbill

Appalachian Spring T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bongo Fury S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Carpe Freeum T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Courageous Grace Greenlee, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Green Wall T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Wave, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Rock Cafe S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hemlock Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
If You Bolt It They Will Come S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jug Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lackey Vision S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Inspector S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Surprise S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lichen Worms T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Line of Fire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Luciferin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lunch at the Y S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Manifest Destiny S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
No Free Lunch T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prepare to Qualify S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pseudo Hardmen S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Real Hard Men S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tips Ahoy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Triple Bypass T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tweakend (AKA Pascal's Route) T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Dan Caldwell, Tim Snyder
Page Views: 4,186 total · 37/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Mar 29, 2009 with updates from Alexander Blum
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This line is a linkup of on existing sport route and a trad finish. Dan and myself re-discovered this finish sometime in 2004.

Climb the 2nd sport route on the lower slab to the anchor(5.11A). Continue up and right to a roof. Move left then straight up aiming to top out right, of the obvious V-shaped block at the top(5.10 c/d). Double bolt anchor at the top.

Done as one long pitch, I recall it being quite fun.

Location [Suggest Change]

This route is located at Middle Hawksbill. Go to the main wall (upper wall) and continue down the cliffline another 300 yards. You will come to the steep 5.12 wall first; continue past this another 100 yards and you will finally reach the correct wall (lower angled slab capped by a roof). Start on the second sport route and climb past the anchor and continue to the top.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Begining section is seven bolts? The roof requires Camalots to blue (optional 3-1/2 or 4) and double TCUs to orange. Many long runners. You can top rope if you extend the anchor down (watch the ends of the rope!!!!).

Photos

Ben Sachs  
 
3 stars is modest. One of the best pitches around (if you link the slab and head wall). Classic. Apr 10, 2009
Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
 
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
 
It's been a few years (2005?) but I thought the headwall was stellar, too. Don't recall placing that much gear, though - I didn't use a double rack of TCUs. Also remember the rock below the anchor having a sharp lip - watch for it if you are toproping. Apr 12, 2009
This is an excellent route and linkup with the 11a sport pitch. The actual FA of the route was done by Thomas Kelly and Pascal Robert around 1990. Tim and Dan climbed it years later thinking it was a FA. The original first pitch has a lone bolt 50ft up and left of the 5.9 warmup sport route. It starts on a series of jugs left of the dirty corner. They belayed on natural gear near one of the double bolt sport route anchors. Maybe Pascal will tell us the real name for this pitch. Apr 29, 2009
I have a topo that calls it "Eclipsecicle" FA: Thomas, Pascal. It shows the route coming in from the left and using the bolt as Bruce mentioned. Linking it with "Pseudo Hardmen" (The 5.10c sport route) makes an excellent pitch and adds an extra dimension to both climbs. May 5, 2009
sean barb
winston salem, north carolina,
 
sean barb   winston salem, north carolina,
 
great line; do it in one pitch! was a fat rattler hanging out at the anchor... yikes! May 10, 2009
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
 
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
 
Great 5.10 pitch! Mantling the top after the link-up is more like 5-stars! Jun 10, 2012
Amazing. I did it in 2 pitches because we didn't have enough long slings. Very steep, exposure. Probably the best route I have done at Middle Hawksbill. Oct 30, 2013
chummer
 
chummer  
 
This linkup is IMO perhaps the best single pitch at hawksbill and a top 5 pitch for NC. The juggy headwall has to be climbed to be believed. It looks every bit 5.12 but climbs and pros up so easy. Sep 24, 2016

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