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Tommy's Arete

V7, Boulder, Alpine,  Avg: 3.9 from 191 votes
FA: Tommy Caldwell
Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > RMNP Bouldering… > Chaos Canyon Bo… > Lower Chaos Canyon > Automator Boulder
Warning Access Issue: Fragile Alpine Area DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the amazing arete on the right side of the boulder can't miss it.

Sit start low and go right hand to a small crimp, from there follow good holds to a shelf, then bust out the crux and top 'er. Watch out for the rock behind you.

Location

This is on the right side of the Automator Block.

Protection

Lots of pads.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Such a great boulder!
[Hide Photo] Such a great boulder!
A classic on a beautiful evening!
[Hide Photo] A classic on a beautiful evening!
Sending Tommy's. Classic!
[Hide Photo] Sending Tommy's. Classic!
Danny Baker: Tommy's Arete.<br>
<br>
Photo credit: Dan Moncur.
[Hide Photo] Danny Baker: Tommy's Arete. Photo credit: Dan Moncur.
Top of Tommy's Arete.
[Hide Photo] Top of Tommy's Arete.
Tommy's.
[Hide Photo] Tommy's.
Tommy's Arete.<br>
<br>
Photo by Peter Beal.
[Hide Photo] Tommy's Arete. Photo by Peter Beal.
Danny Baker: Tommy's Arete.<br>
<br>
Photo credit: Dan Moncur.
[Hide Photo] Danny Baker: Tommy's Arete. Photo credit: Dan Moncur.
Danny Baker: Tommy's Arete.<br>
<br>
Photo credit: Dan Moncur.
[Hide Photo] Danny Baker: Tommy's Arete. Photo credit: Dan Moncur.
Danny Baker: Tommy's Arete.<br>
<br>
Photo credit: Dan Moncur.
[Hide Photo] Danny Baker: Tommy's Arete. Photo credit: Dan Moncur.
Danny Baker: Tommy's Arete.<br>
<br>
The crux, I would say, was sidepull crimp to next move knowing you could fall wrong.<br>
<br>
Photo credit: Dan Moncur.
[Hide Photo] Danny Baker: Tommy's Arete. The crux, I would say, was sidepull crimp to next move knowing you could fall wrong. Photo credit: Dan Moncur.
Jerad Friedrichs on Tommy's Arete. A bit blurry.
[Hide Photo] Jerad Friedrichs on Tommy's Arete. A bit blurry.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

tcamillieri
Denver
[Hide Comment] Did a variation of this problem today that eliminates all use of the arete, via using some of the holds on Automator and stemming in the shallow dihedral. It's called Tom's Arete. Sep 12, 2009
David McAllister
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Although soft for V7, this is one of the most amazing climbs I've ever been on...in the world. Incredible, in a word. Jul 25, 2010
[Hide Comment] There's a fun variation on this climb starting on Tommy's, then at the huge rubber covered ledge it moves out right to nice crimps and a big lock off to the top. V5? Sep 21, 2013
[Hide Comment] Old video of me doing Tommy's Arete, V7 and Mikala, V7:

youtube.com/watch?v=BQHfEwn… Nov 18, 2017
Morgan Pearson
Ames, IA
 
[Hide Comment] Really amazing problem, must do! Please be careful to practice Leave No Trace, as every time I've been to this boulder, there's been a plethora of bar wrappers, tape trash, and tick marks. Jul 19, 2018
[Hide Comment] Try not to think about Daniel Woods doing it blindfolded.. Dec 28, 2018
Madeline Strother
Knoxville, TN
Will Lohman
Draper
 
[Hide Comment] Another beta video: youtu.be/2wfw9sXtTe0. Jan 1, 2022
Joe Alestra
  V7
Scott B
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Post rockfall: youtube.com/watch?v=LVkeGbP…. Jul 1, 2023