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Routes in California Ridge

Access Denied T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ayatollah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Band Aids On Road Rash T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
California Five-Eleven A S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Case Dismissed T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Guilty As Charged S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mullah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: Dimitri Barton and David Caunt, 1991
Page Views: 1,765 total, 17/month
Shared By: Steve R. on Mar 26, 2009 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

At the left end of California Ridge lies what is called California Five-Eleven A. Feels harder than the b/c rating that it's given in the guidebook...

Two bolts under the roof and some burly moves lead to 15' of face climbing. 3 bolt anchor.

Supposedly can be top-roped in a variation to the left though due to the potential swing it is not the best.

Location

Located at the left end of California Ridge in the middle of a roof maybe 8' off the deck and 3' deep or so. Two bolts nearly horizontal with each other mark the start a few feet left of the inside corner (Access Denied)

Protection

5 draws. More arms than I've got. Quite difficult to clip the second clip. Bring something to extend the clip just above the lip otherwise the gate will rub right on it.

Also there are no rap rings at the top of this climb but you can walk around the top to clean the anchor. Lastly you might want to tie yourself to something as the belayer as to not get sucked off the cliff.

Photos

grabski
N California
  5.12a
grabski   N California
  5.12a
Agree on 12a. I didn't climb it before the hold broke, but the bouldery crux feels harder than 11+ now anyway. Probably want to place a long draw on the bolt over the lip. Otherwise the rope-side carabiner can get loaded on the edge. Jun 24, 2016
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
5.12a
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
5.12a
Dimitri Barton and David Caunt did the FA of California Five-Eleven A in 1991. Jul 21, 2014
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
5.12a
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
5.12a
Probably more like 5.12a since the infamous "dog dick" toe lock broke under the roof. Harder now than in the past in any case. Jul 19, 2014
Julian Bobilev
  5.11d
Julian Bobilev  
  5.11d
Easily 5.11d in my opinion. The long, hard crux beta took us over three hours to finally figure out. Jan 26, 2014