California Five-Eleven A
Avg: 2.8 from 13 votes
Routes in California Ridge
|Access Denied T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Ayatollah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Band Aids On Road Rash T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|California Five-Eleven A S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Case Dismissed T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Guilty As Charged S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Mullah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Sport, TR, 30 ft|
|FA:||Dimitri Barton and David Caunt, 1991|
|Page Views:||1,765 total, 17/month|
|Shared By:||Steve R. on Mar 26, 2009|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details
DescriptionAt the left end of California Ridge lies what is called California Five-Eleven A. Feels harder than the b/c rating that it's given in the guidebook...
Two bolts under the roof and some burly moves lead to 15' of face climbing. 3 bolt anchor.
Supposedly can be top-roped in a variation to the left though due to the potential swing it is not the best.
LocationLocated at the left end of California Ridge in the middle of a roof maybe 8' off the deck and 3' deep or so. Two bolts nearly horizontal with each other mark the start a few feet left of the inside corner (Access Denied)
Protection5 draws. More arms than I've got. Quite difficult to clip the second clip. Bring something to extend the clip just above the lip otherwise the gate will rub right on it.
Also there are no rap rings at the top of this climb but you can walk around the top to clean the anchor. Lastly you might want to tie yourself to something as the belayer as to not get sucked off the cliff.