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Molson's Madness

5.12a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 1.7 from 11 votes
FA: Jim Dunn, 1977
New Hampshire > Cathedral Ledge > Cathedral Cave

Description

I think the crux is about 3/4 of the way across though it is pretty sustained. Originally done with pins, they were stolen AT LEAST 3 times. Now bolted. Kinda strenno but probably the easiest route in the cave.

Location

Right side of the cave- up and left baby !

Protection

bolts, fixed anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A photo of the route.
[Hide Photo] A photo of the route.
The Molson's Madness bolts in March 1989.<br> The belay is the black ledge at the upper-center left. Some blue webbing is just visible.
[Hide Photo] The Molson's Madness bolts in March 1989. The belay is the black ledge at the upper-center left. Some blue webbing is just visible.
March 1989. Ben taking a rest while aid cleaning Molson's Madness. This photo gives a good idea of how far off the ground the route gets. It starts above the slab on the R and quickly angles up.
[Hide Photo] March 1989. Ben taking a rest while aid cleaning Molson's Madness. This photo gives a good idea of how far off the ground the route gets. It starts above the slab on the R and quickly angles up.
Molson's Madness back in October 1988. It's the clean obvious upward sloping crack that starts a boulder move above the center climber. Brandeis Outdoors and Mountain Club outing.
[Hide Photo] Molson's Madness back in October 1988. It's the clean obvious upward sloping crack that starts a boulder move above the center climber. Brandeis Outdoors and Mountain Club outing.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] 5 bolts 2 pins. Crux is between 4-5 bolts. The roof seeps after a few days of sustained rain and soaks bolts 3-5. Also makes for a good intro bolt ladder for aspiring aid climbers. It's a good alternative to the first pitch of Cathedral direct. From the pin anchor there are a couple rivets that lead to the cathedral direct crack system out the roof. Aug 31, 2009
Steve Moulding
New York
[Hide Comment] Has anyone been out the Cathedral Direct roof in recent years? Back in the day I wanted to do it but never did. Have never seen anyone on it either. Looks like a good adventure! Aug 19, 2015
Dogarf
[Hide Comment] The second pin is gone, broke in half when my partner was practicing some basic aid skills. Sent him for a pretty good whip, be careful through the easier ground to the anchor now as it is a bit runout. Wouldn't mind seeing a bolt replace the the pin that still remains, given the ethics of the cave and the very real possibility of a grounder if it blew from a fall at the wrong place. Overall was surprised by the quality of the route, very fun and sustained with the crux (in my opinion) coming between the last two bolts.
What was the second pin.
May 22, 2016