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Routes in The Cathedral Cave

Ball Hog A3
Devil Made Me Dog It, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grandmother's Challenge S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Molson's Madness S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pin Snatcher A3
Sanctuary S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jim Dunn, 1977
Page Views: 1,188 total, 11/month
Shared By: john strand on Mar 26, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

I think the crux is about 3/4 of the way across though it is pretty sustained. Originally done with pins, they were stolen AT LEAST 3 times. Now bolted. Kinda strenno but probably the easiest route in the cave.

Location

Right side of the cave- up and left baby !

Protection

bolts, fixed anchor
Dodge  
The second pin is gone, broke in half when my partner was practicing some basic aid skills. Sent him for a pretty good whip, be careful through the easier ground to the anchor now as it is a bit runout. Wouldn't mind seeing a bolt replace the the pin that still remains, given the ethics of the cave and the very real possibility of a grounder if it blew from a fall at the wrong place. Overall was surprised by the quality of the route, very fun and sustained with the crux (in my opinion) coming between the last two bolts.
May 22, 2016
Steve Moulding
New York
Steve Moulding   New York
Has anyone been out the Cathedral Direct roof in recent years? Back in the day I wanted to do it but never did. Have never seen anyone on it either. Looks like a good adventure! Aug 19, 2015
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.12a
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.12a
5 bolts 2 pins. Crux is between 4-5 bolts. The roof seeps after a few days of sustained rain and soaks bolts 3-5. Also makes for a good intro bolt ladder for aspiring aid climbers. It's a good alternative to the first pitch of Cathedral direct. From the pin anchor there are a couple rivets that lead to the cathedral direct crack system out the roof. Aug 31, 2009