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Routes in Albany Slabs

Fool's For A Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gemini Dreamin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Reelin' In the Fears T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Standard and Poors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tao of Dow, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: M. Hartrich, Albert Dow, Alec Behr May 1980
Page Views: 739 total, 7/month
Shared By: john strand on Mar 26, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Private Property Details

Description

A pretty good climb at a moderate grade. Ascends a nice slab with fair-to-good pro, though a little run out at the top.

START: On the slab below, and a little right of, the tree growing from a crack about 20-25ft up. [Var] Climb the slab, passing to the right of the tree, and climb the slab above (tri-cams and TCU's) to a very shallow flake/left-facing-corner (natural thread possible). Up this and on to a stance (with 1/4" bolt). Now step right and make smearing moves (crux) to the slab above. Move up and left (TCU and/or nut for possible belay and/or directional) and then up along a dike. Continue to the dbl bolt (3/8") anchor of "Fools / Reelin'" ....or, about 10-12 feet before reaching that anchor, step up right and out of the dike to the slab and trees above. 140 +/- ft, 5.8+ PG-13 to R (for the old 1/4" bolt)

Variation: It is possible to start on "Standard and Poors" and move right up the slab to intercept the described route below the flake/corner. This variation is less well protected and you have to fight the tree's branches.

Location

Roughly 1/2 way along the large tree ledge, Look for a large-ish (6-8" diameter) tree growing on the cliff, with branches brushing the slab above, growing about 20-25 ft up, and just below a small, horizontal overlap. 20 ft, or so, further left the horizontal overlap grows to 2-3 ft in size (and is the start of "Standard and Poors")

Protection

1 bolt (1/4", may be crap) and some small gear

Photos

Northeast Alpine Start
Conway, New Hampshire
Northeast Alpine Start   Conway, New Hampshire
Took a top-belay lap on this for the first time this morning. Fun route, also my partner took a lap on Reeling in the Fears before I had to dash off to work. Point of note, you CAN rap from that anchor with a 60m rope. Use stopper knots and you should just make the good sized tree directly under Reelin' in the Fears. Another 80 foot rap off that tree (no fixed slings) gets you to the deck. Oct 3, 2016
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.8+ PG13
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.8+ PG13
Fun route, but that manky old bolt should be replaced before someone falls on it. The moves to the right from the bolt are the hardest on the climb. Any objections to replacing it? Any volunteers? Is there an Albany Slabs version of Team Tough? (Yeah, right . . . ) Aug 9, 2015
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.8+ R
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.8+ R
John- I'd say you're thinking of the route on the LEFT, Std & Poors, with the 3 bolts. Jun 11, 2015
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
 
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
 
I've never climbed a route with so many tricam eating pockets. Sweet May 16, 2015
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
See, I;m getting old. I think the route to the right has 3 bolts, also around 5.8 or so.
The original route was un named by Hartrich and Dow. Albert died in '82 and Ed Webster proposed the name for his guide. Albert had a hand drawn topo of the cliff and Hartrich gave it to Ed. Jun 3, 2014
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.8+ R
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.8+ R
The bolt is an old 1/4". Only one ( where did the "three" come from?!) The climb was done by, and named for Albert Dow, who died in an avalanche on Mt Washington while involved in a rescue.
If you don't like the pro, and you know your way around the top of the cliff, the crux moves of the climb could always be TR'd using two ropes from a tree at the top. I have TR-rope-soloed it in this manner, with a directional or two. Jun 3, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.8+ PG13
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.8+ PG13
Thanks JChepes. I walked into the cliff today to look at the route, but with all of the trees, it's tough to see unless you traverse from the start of Gemini Dreaming onto that little terrace which would have been dodgy without a rope (mossy, wet, greasy). I think I'll wait awhile to do Tao, as it sounds as if the pro is not too good. Jul 24, 2013
JChepes
West Ossipee, NH
JChepes   West Ossipee, NH
I remember using a large nut at the top but no small ones. You do want a tri-cam, black I think, down low, or you will have a run-out. A thread is a hole in the rock which a sling can be passed through and used as pro. The most important thing to remember is the only bolt on the climb, which protects the crux, is crap.
Great climb, but I would not want to test that bolt. Top anchors are new. 60m rope will not get you down. You have to downclimb @10 ft to make it. Fun cliff, just needs some new hardware. Jul 24, 2013
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.8+ PG13
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.8+ PG13
I want to do Tao of Dow, but I don't have any tri-cams. Can I get good placements with old RP's and small wired stoppers? I live right near Albany in the summer, but I haven't been trad climbing for a while (25 years!), and I want to know how run-out is this thing. I'm too old for any long scrapers. Also, what do you mean by there is a "thread" a third of the way up? Jul 24, 2013
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
This is a fun climb. Long, a couple tricky sections, and mediocre protection. There was only one very old 1/4" bolt about halfway up. There's also a thread about 1/3 of the way up. Tricams and smaller nuts were helpful. Jul 8, 2012