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Black Corner

5.8, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 18 votes
FA: unknown
Connecticut > Central Valley > E Peak > Amphitheater
Warning Access Issue: Permits Required to Climb on City of Meriden, CT properties. DetailsDrop down

Description

This route is somewhat sustained and is a very enjoyable lead or TR. The crux comes for most, especially shorter climbers, about 15 feet up.

Location

This route is the next corner system to the right of Squirrel Cage and is the obvious black dihedral. There are several gulleys available for descent, the easiest being to the right when facing the wall.

Protection

The gear is a little dicey with microcams being very useful around the crux. Even with the right size gear the crux may feel heady, especially for shorter climbers. There is a tree on top along with cracks to make an anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

black corner, photo by Jay Willis
[Hide Photo] black corner, photo by Jay Willis
belaying Kim Smith while Ken Nichols and friend follow closely behind. In the background is the well chalked up 'Cat Crack' - Nov 1987
[Hide Photo] belaying Kim Smith while Ken Nichols and friend follow closely behind. In the background is the well chalked up 'Cat Crack' - Nov 1987
Doug placing gear before the crux.
[Hide Photo] Doug placing gear before the crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kalil Oldham
Jersey City, NJ
 
[Hide Comment] If we're calling Squirrel Cage 5.9, this is more like 5.7+. Gear is definitely dicey at the crux, seems like an SLCD behind that block might blow it out. Otherwise, I found it enjoyable. Nov 28, 2011
Nick W
Orford, NH
[Hide Comment] Technical gear placements down low with some run-out and ground fall potential. Not for the new 5.8 leader. Reasonable lead for an experienced trad leader. Critical small nut placement at crux. Oct 28, 2016