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Black Angus V7 7A+
Sloper City V8 7B
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Nick Williamson
Page Views: 3,307 total, 31/month
Shared By: STICKY NICK on Mar 26, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This boulder is sick and a complete power and core problem with techy balance and finesse, there are three crux's, first you go all the way back in the cave and sit on a obvious sit start rock with jugs in your face pull a couple fun moves to a big jug sloper and do a three foot drop down to another sloper (first crux) at that point you should be horizontal and both hands on lower sloper rail then the fun begins do some super core moves to the middle of the rail and be delicate here this is the second crux once you get you right hand on the only good hold to a big dead point to a awesome pinch then keep your core and composer and set a heel set up and do a huge four foot deadpoint to the jug(third crux) caution there is a tooth and it will bite you if you grab it wrong then bust a few fun moves on steep terrain and top it out and its over

Location

From the black box in big bend look up the hill and you will see a lightning bolt like crack and off to the right you will see a cave and some chalk following the arete, pretty straight foward if you are lucky you will see some locals up there screaming cause its kicking their ass.

Protection

A couple pads and a few friends

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8
This is funny because I finally got around to trying this a couple of weeks ago, and my first thought was- Why is this cool climb being started buried in a hole on a chossy, loose jug surrounded by spiderwebs and rodent feces instead of simply starting two or three feet to the left on the obvious, solid crimp rail?

This line climbs well and the rock is quite good for the most part. I found the finishing move to the jug harder than I thought it would be!

However, I still don't get why one would take an obvious and beautiful, natural line and make it highly contrived by forcing a completely unnecessary drop down to the lower rail.

I understand the desire to create hard variations for the challenge and creativity they present. But, in this case, the natural line is the v6-ish line that uses the higher rail. Dropping down to the lower rail increases the difficulty but, in my opinion, diminishes the quality.

Still, props for the FA. Excellent rock and movement. Great find. Jan 3, 2013
ben jammin
Moab, UT
 
ben jammin   Moab, UT
 
Originally, this problem was done on the flat edge/undercling one move back from the incut crimpers. I began working it this way and immediately started bringing huge blocks down on me. I believe that someone will eventually have the entire 'starting hold' in there lap.

I feel starting matched on the incut crimpers makes this a 4-star problem, and doesn't lower the grade. The rock quality for 95% of this problem is impeccable, and its my opinion that not only does the choss start severely diminish's the quality of this problem, it's also very contrived.

Also, since I was asked I'll clarify; if you stay on the high rail all the way till the end its a different problem (V5ish?). Great find and great FA Sticky. Jan 3, 2013