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Regular Route

5.7, Trad, Alpine, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.4 from 15 votes
FA: First ascent, 1950: first pitch led by Dick Pownall, second by Bob Merriam. Mike Brewer and Leigh Ortenburger also participated. Some pro on both pitc
Wyoming > Grand Teton NP > Red Sentinel

Description

See earlier notes.

Location

The wide crack on the southeast side of the tower is unmistakable. Climb it, traverse right to the north side, and continue up the left edge of the north face.

Protection

Stoppers and smallish cams or tcu's for the second pitch. The initial wide crack has no pro unless you carry a big cam or hex, in the #5 or greater range (for a cam.)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Airy face climbing on P2
[Hide Photo] Airy face climbing on P2
Red Sentinel from Disappointment Peak. <br> Red Alert 5.11c = Green <br> Normal Route 5.7+= Orange
[Hide Photo] Red Sentinel from Disappointment Peak. Red Alert 5.11c = Green Normal Route 5.7+= Orange
Free hangin' rappel
[Hide Photo] Free hangin' rappel
Anchors at the top of the first pitch. We rapped off of the webbing due to cold conditions and questionable weather.
[Hide Photo] Anchors at the top of the first pitch. We rapped off of the webbing due to cold conditions and questionable weather.
Looking up the southeast face from the top of the first pitch. The route crosses the arete to the north face on the right of the photo.
[Hide Photo] Looking up the southeast face from the top of the first pitch. The route crosses the arete to the north face on the right of the photo.
Red Sentinel from the southwest.
[Hide Photo] Red Sentinel from the southwest.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Harrison Dreves
Denver, Colorado
[Hide Comment] The first pitch of this was certainly an eye opener. I think you could protect with a #3 cam in one or two spots, but you'd really want a #4 or #5. The crack is much more fist to shoulder sized than hand crack sized (as our guidebook described it). It certainly intimidated me as a rather new trad leader with gear up to a #2 cam. Nov 5, 2010
Chad Namolik
 
[Hide Comment] The P1 crack is juggy with crimps hidden on the sides of the crack - no wide technique required. 3” & 4” cams plus #9 & #11 hexes protect well.

P2 has great face climbing w/ exciting exposure and many old pitons to clip. Best to link this short climb w/ something on the west face of Disappointment Pk or climb Corkscrew and hop over the saddle to the NE. Aug 18, 2021
Daniel Nelli
[Hide Comment] Any chance you can rap off the summit with one rope (leaving biners on fixed gear, other shenanigans, etc.)? Oct 9, 2023
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Stellar route. 2nd pitch as good as it gets. Wish the route was longer! Aug 26, 2024
Benton Hodges
Jackson, WY
 
[Hide Comment] Spectacular climb with great postion. Truest tower summit I’ve been on in the Tetons. Fun crack to a hand traverse on pitch 1. Intimidating and improbable 5.7 flakes lead you across and up the north face pitch 2. Trust that it goes at the grade and hope those old pins are good. Au cheval on the summit ridge before finishing with a free hanging 2-rope rappel. *chefs kiss*

First pitch crack is filled with crimp jugs. I was able to adequately protect with gear to #3, but a #4 would make you feel comfy if at your limit. I second Chads suggestion of combining this climb with Corkscrew and the West Face of Disappointment. Logical linkup and makes a collection of shorter climbs a little more worth it. Aug 3, 2025