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Routes in Metaphysical Wall

Crystal Ball T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Metaphysical T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Oracle, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Prophet, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Weathered Man, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 96 total · 1/month
Shared By: Kevin McLaughlin on Mar 25, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Road & nearby private property Details

Description

Right-leaning crack to second left-leaning crack.

Protection

Pro to 4 inches.

Photos

Steve Annecone
boulder
5.9 R
Steve Annecone   boulder
5.9 R
This pitch seems unnecessarily dangerous in the section leaving the wide crack and moving up and left to the seam. There's no gear other than a wide cam down by your feet and then thin, heads-up moves right off the bat, with any falls definitely resulting in hitting a big sloping ramp. While I respect the ground up ethic here, I'm curious why a bolt wasn't placed in this section from the good stances that exist there? Maybe I missed an easier sequence...? Sep 18, 2017
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
Yo, Dan, you got it right - Metaphysical has the two bolts on the lower section, starts in the wide crack for a couple moves, and breaks off left & up. Tell Phil to fix that shit :) Dec 7, 2010
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
In the Beta photo, it looks like Mr Schuler is on Metaphysical, not Crystal Balls (at least based on the descriptions of Metaphysical and Crystal Balls). Am I completely off? If you look down and to the right of Glenn, there is a large, ~4in crack that angles up right. If you take this crack for 50ft and then the second crack on the left, you can make your way up to chains. We thought that climb was Crystal Balls, although it seemed easier than 9+. Nov 29, 2010