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Renus Wrinkle

5.10a R, Trad,  Avg: 2.7 from 9 votes
FA: Eric Mayo, Brian Bennett, Bob Ost, 9/88
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > El Cap Picnic Area > Manure Pile Buttress…
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Renus Wrinkle is the bolt / trad line just left of the 5.9 start to the Nutcracker, and just right of the original start. It goes straight up the face past three good bolts that protect the crux very well, then heads right a bit on somewhat finnicky gear (but good). Then up past 2 old 1/4" bolts. From here either traverse straight right to the tree with rap slings that is the belay for the Nutcracker 5.9 Variation or continue straight up to the Nutcracker ramp building a gear belay when you need it and climbing an easier (5.8ish) final short pitch.

Good solid rock and fun climbing. Just spicy enough to be exciting, but never dangerous.

If someone replaced the last two high bolts, I bet this line would see a lot more traffic. The first three bolts that protect the crux are all new and bomber.

Location

Just right of the Nutcracker Original start and just left of the 5.9 Nutcracker variation start.

Protection

RPs to 2.5 friend (as per Reid)
Or
Draws, couple small nuts and aliens, cams to #2

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mark Grundon
Lee Vining
 
[Hide Comment] All bolts have been replaced and are now 3/8th stainless ASCA bolts. Jul 5, 2015
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] Thanks Mark! Jul 5, 2015
Josh Fengel
Mariposa, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Best face climb at Manure Pile Oct 18, 2018