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Routes in The Traddy Wagon

Hooligan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Paddy Cake S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ruffian T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman & Jim Scott 2/18/09
Page Views: 382 total, 4/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Mar 25, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Crank up pumpy sidepulls and edges on the clean lower face, scramble over the ledgy middle section, and jam out the burly roof crack on assorted handjams, fingerlocks, and edges. A great but devious route requiring a fine combination of power and body english.

Location

The left-hand roof crack on the wall, with two bolts on the lower face.

Protection

2 bolts, #.3-#2 camalots, couple medium stoppers, clip-and-lower anchors.

Photos

Be careful of loose stuff on the ledges. I accidentally knocked off a 50+ pound block. Fortunately I missed the belayer by a long-shot. Nov 22, 2009
Tried hard to onsight this and failed. Got the beta and still could not pull it off. It is one of those problems that isn't straight forward and could take a while to work out. With the beta it is still hard but the move is cool and I really want to do it. Bomber gear makes it possible to work it pretty safely. My toes touched the lip of the ledge once. A longer fall from higher will probably put you past the ledge. Nice job Trevor. Apr 4, 2009