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Routes in El Gaucho

El Pollo T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gay Caballero T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Inknobvious Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Omer's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Puppy Woof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
We Stand Corrected S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 205 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 92 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tavis Ricksecker on Mar 24, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Portal Road Closure Details


This route starts as a left leaning finger and hand crack (5.8). Eventually the crack peters out into a knobby face. Make a few exciting moves on knobs up into a flared water groove, and follow this (5.9) to the top. A wee bit dicey.


Near the left side of El Gaucho buttress are two large boulders at the base. The right of these contains the route Puppy Woof. Scramble up the gully in between these boulders to reach the base of the route. Above you, the arete of the buttress drops down right at the top of the gully. Gay Caballero starts right above you, but to reach the ledge you start off, tunnel left under the left boulder and then up, then come back to the right side of the ledge. To contrive an extra twenty feet of climbing, start the crack right at the top of the gully instead of on the ledge. If you do this, a 60m rope will not reach the summit! I learned the hard way. A 70m would have been fine, though.


Standard rack to #3 camalot.


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