Gay Caballero

This route had some bolts and a couple belays added to it at some point. Current beta below. 

Pitch 1: This Route starts the same as Omer’s Route with a nice leaning finger and hand crack. Eventually the crack peters out into a knobby face. Make a few exciting moves on knobs and belay on a small ledge with 0.5-2” gear. (5.7 100ft)

Pitch 2: Continue up the splitter crack aiming for the bolts in the water groove. Clip 5 bolts up the groove and slab to a bolted anchor with rap rings. (5.9 110ft)

Pitch 3: Continue up the slab past 2 more bolts and belay off a constriction next to the original rappel or clip 2 more bolts on a very short headwall to a bolted anchor with rap rings on top. (5.7 50ft or 5.9 65ft)

Near the left side of El Gaucho buttress are two large boulders at the base. The right of these contains the route Puppy Woof. Scramble up the gully in between these boulders to reach the base of the route. Above you, the arete of the buttress drops down right at the top of the gully. Gay Caballero starts right above you, but to reach the ledge you start off, tunnel left under the left boulder and then up, then come back to the right side of the ledge. To contrive an extra twenty feet of climbing, start the crack right at the top of the gully instead of on the ledge. If you do this, a 60m rope will not reach the summit! I learned the hard way. A 70m would have been fine, though.

Standard rack to #3 camalot.