Type: Sport, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: Todd Goss | Ext. Todd Perkins (2005)
Page Views: 5,069 total · 26/month
Shared By: jhump on Mar 24, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Beautiful line of pockets leading leftward toward an alcove with a chain anchor. Clip the bolt just above and left of the chain anchor and continue on through easier climbing for 5 more bolts to the top. Lower to the ground with a 70 meter rope, or lower twice with a 60 meter. The guidebook indicates if you continue to the top anchor, it is 5.12a; but I do not concur. I felt the difficulty was in the first section with the top being much easier. The entire shooting match felt like 5.11b/c. Several others I spoke with at the crag felt the same.

Location Suggest change

Located on the Wailing Wall. Head right on the fixed ropes until the ledge opens wide enough for comfortable walking. At a mostly vertical section of wall, before you get to Heretic Wisdom (gently overhanging arete). Spy a gorgeous line of pockets heading leftward to toward the moon.

Protection Suggest change

About 8 fixed draws to the first anchor, then you need 5 of your own draws for the top section. Both anchors (lower and upper) are fixed with biners.

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