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Routes in The Wailing Wall

Afterbirth S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bastard Stepchild S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Blinking Cowboy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Casting Aspersions S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Going Nowhere S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hanging with Mr. Butt Hutt S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heretic Wisdom S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Holbytla S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Indulgence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Infidels, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lend Me an Ear S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pocketline to the Moon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pussycat S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Re-Do S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Resurrection S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rhinopotamus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Robbed S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rush to Judgement S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tramp Stamp S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Treebeard S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Unknown Renown S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wandering Wanda S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: T. Perkins, L. Hopkinson, R. Leavitt
Page Views: 2,619 total · 22/month
Shared By: jhump on Mar 24, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Beautiful line of pockets leading leftward toward an alcove with a chain anchor. Clip the bolt just above and left of the chain anchor and continue on through easier climbing for 5 more bolts to the top. Lower to the ground with a 70 meter rope, or lower twice with a 60 meter. The guidebook indicates if you continue to the top anchor, it is 5.12a; but I do not concur. I felt the difficulty was in the first section with the top being much easier. The entire shooting match felt like 5.11b/c. Several others I spoke with at the crag felt the same.

Location

Located on the Wailing Wall. Head right on the fixed ropes until the ledge opens wide enough for comfortable walking. At a mostly vertical section of wall, before you get to Heretic Wisdom (gently overhanging arete). Spy a gorgeous line of pockets heading leftward to toward the moon.

Protection

About 8 fixed draws to the first anchor, then you need 5 of your own draws for the top section. Both anchors (lower and upper) are fixed with biners.

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