Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: T. Perkins, L. Hopkinson, R. Leavitt
Page Views: 2,691 total · 23/month
Shared By: jhump on Mar 24, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Beautiful line of pockets leading leftward toward an alcove with a chain anchor. Clip the bolt just above and left of the chain anchor and continue on through easier climbing for 5 more bolts to the top. Lower to the ground with a 70 meter rope, or lower twice with a 60 meter. The guidebook indicates if you continue to the top anchor, it is 5.12a; but I do not concur. I felt the difficulty was in the first section with the top being much easier. The entire shooting match felt like 5.11b/c. Several others I spoke with at the crag felt the same.

Location

Located on the Wailing Wall. Head right on the fixed ropes until the ledge opens wide enough for comfortable walking. At a mostly vertical section of wall, before you get to Heretic Wisdom (gently overhanging arete). Spy a gorgeous line of pockets heading leftward to toward the moon.

Protection

About 8 fixed draws to the first anchor, then you need 5 of your own draws for the top section. Both anchors (lower and upper) are fixed with biners.

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