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Triple Play

5.10a, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 1.5 from 82 votes
FA: Marga Powell, Peter Dillon, Ron Olsen, 3/22/09
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Animal World > Lower Animal World
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Description

Three people on the first ascent, and three crux sections...a triple play. Varied, interesting climbing all the way up.

Climb straight up a narrowing crack to a slot. Work up the slot and step left to a ledge. Climb a short left-facing corner and crank up right to a slab. Continue to an overhang, climb up left onto a pedestal, and surmount the overhang. Continue more easily to the anchor.

A harder variation (10d?) turns the overhang a bit more to the right.

Location

Start at a hand crack between Crack Corner and Animal Riots Activist, at the left side of Animal World. These are the first routes you see when you approach the crag.

Protection

3 or 4 cams from 1/4" to 2", then 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. We used a #2 Camalot, #1 Camalot, green Alien, and red Alien on the first ascent.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Routes on the far left side of Animal World.<br>
<br>
Crack Corner, 7, gear.<br>
Triple Play, 10a, gear & bolts.<br>
Animal Riots Activist, 12a, bolts.
[Hide Photo] Routes on the far left side of Animal World. Crack Corner, 7, gear. Triple Play, 10a, gear & bolts. Animal Riots Activist, 12a, bolts.
Resting below the crux.
[Hide Photo] Resting below the crux.
At the second bolt.
[Hide Photo] At the second bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] How do you rate it? Well, the climb is a step off of a 5.7 much of the way, and I could force the line right for hard moves (probably 5.11) or stem back and left for rest (far easier). By staying more or less on route as I could figure it and choosing the most interesting yet solid climbing up without getting silly eliminating holds and stems, the grade I checked in at was probably 5.9. May 21, 2009
khoa
Tacomarado
 
[Hide Comment] Very contrived. Jul 9, 2009
Alan Butler
Boulder, CO
5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] I led this climb and ended up stepping/reaching over to the 5.7 crack a little too often. On top rope, actually climbing the bolt line I thought it was significantly harder than Is It Ready Yet Moe, which comes in at 5.10a on this site. So, to me, it was at least 5.10c, if not slightly harder, if you stayed more to the right of the bolt line. Apr 14, 2010
Bapgar 1
Out of the Loop
 
[Hide Comment] Interesting, I had no idea that there are supposedly 2 distinct lines here. Jul 10, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Contrived, yet fun. I thought the moves through the slot were great and the harder moves up high can be made easier by stepping easily left. So, just combine the two routes wherever it feels natural for a decent route all in all. Aug 10, 2012
JF M
NoCo
 
[Hide Comment] Ditto on the contrived character of the line. It's hard to resist the stems leftmost of the time. We used a #3.0, 3.5, and 00 Friend for the bottom part. Jul 5, 2013
[Hide Comment] This felt more than contrived - it was just silly. How far do you force a move before stepping back left? I led the stemming corner and clipped all the bolts, on toprope climbing anything other than that felt contrived. Almost like this "route" shouldn't even be in the database, just call it variations on the retrobolted stemming corner.

Still it's nice to be able to do the corner with just 4 draws... Aug 2, 2015
slim

  5.9
[Hide Comment] IIRC, the first bolt is in a block that isn't solid also.... Aug 3, 2015
Dirk Diggler
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] +1 for contrived. Jan 26, 2016
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The bottom half was OK, but the top half naturally draws you leftward. Trying to stay right is more than contrived. Aug 14, 2017