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Rusty

5.8+, Sport, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 1.5 from 23 votes
FA: unknown
Tennessee > Lower Leda

Description

Crux for me is right off the ground. Hard start with easier climbing above. Best part of the route is the lower part. Upper part is ledgy and easier. Stick clip is a good idea if you aren't comfortable with the start.

Location

First route directly left of Footloose. Go left when you reach the top of the access trail.

Protection

5 bolts and anchors

Both anchor bolts were loose on March 7 2024

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Route location
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kit Taylor
Atlanta, GA
 
[Hide Comment] Start takes a little thinking but not hard. From there route goes from ok to not worth doing. Oct 26, 2009
[Hide Comment] This was an extremely confusing start for me. If you start from the inside corner and work around the arete to the face it is probably the appropriate 5.8 grade but seems contrived. However there was a lot of chalk on the corner and face when I climbed it which would appear to be the start, but doing it this way makes for a very hard boulder problem around V4 or more, which imo makes it harder than Footloose 10a next to it. Sep 11, 2017
Kuan Chang
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] The challenging start will surely make you think your climbing skills are Rusty! I ended up going back in the dihedral traversing around the arete. Had I not been able to clip the second bolt with a stick clip this would have felt terrifying. Jan 30, 2021
[Hide Comment] As of July 5, 2022 - Right anchor bolt hanger is loose and spinning. Likely needs replacing. Check for yourself before top roping Jul 5, 2022
Mello Onsight
Alpharetta GA,
[Hide Comment] If you start at the true start and don't go left around the back in corner, beware it's not 5.8+. Most 5.8/9 leaders will likely need a small aid or step to get to the first real hold. And if you only stick clip the first bolt and try to go around left then back on the climb, it could get ugly. Per the earlier comment from Kuan, if you do that, then stick clip the second bolt Sep 25, 2023