Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: pre-1981
Page Views: 204 total · 2/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Mar 23, 2009
Admins: Mike Howard, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Be respectful when crossing private land. Details

Description

Follow the fist crack as it trends left up the face, then hang a hard right and finish up the ramp. Mostly <=5.6 climbing except the bulge at the start, which is easily protected. This would be a decent beginner trad lead.

This description is based on the 1981 guide. The 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide also has a route called 'Look Mom, No Friends', but it's in a slightly different location and seems to more closely match the 'Look Mom, Friends' route in the 1981 guide. I deferred to the precedent of the 1981 guide.

Location

On the southern end of the east wall of the dome, just right of a chimney and left of a roof. Ascend the obvious fist crack that leads to a ramp above. Walk off to the north.

Protection

Standard trad rack of single cams up to #4 C4. Gear anchor and/or slung boulders on top.

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