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Routes in Far Rock

Gollum TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left or Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Look Mom, No Friends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: pre-1981
Page Views: 44 total, 0/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Mar 23, 2009
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Follow the fist crack as it trends left up the face, then hang a hard right and finish up the ramp. Mostly <=5.6 climbing except the bulge at the start, which is easily protected. This would be a decent beginner trad lead.

This description is based on the 1981 guide. The 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide also has a route called 'Look Mom, No Friends', but it's in a slightly different location and seems to more closely match the 'Look Mom, Friends' route in the 1981 guide. I deferred to the precedent of the 1981 guide.

Location

On the southern end of the east wall of the dome, just right of a chimney and left of a roof. Ascend the obvious fist crack that leads to a ramp above. Walk off to the north.

Protection

Standard trad rack of single cams up to #4 C4. Gear anchor and/or slung boulders on top.

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