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Routes in Far Rock

Gollum TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left or Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Look Mom, No Friends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: ?, pre-1981
Page Views: 36 total, 0/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Mar 23, 2009
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details


This decent little route combines some crack and face moves. It appears that any of the various crack/seam systems will take you to the top. I'm guessing the "Left or Right" crux that's mentioned in the 1981 guide refers to the exit move around the wedged boulder at the top. This route is also described in the 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide. Maybe kind of soft for 5.8, but I left the rating as described in the original guides.


Ascend the right-hand side of the south-facing wall just east of the Great Crevice.
Walk off the north side.


Standard trad rack of single cams and nuts. A #1 and a #2 tricam can also be useful. Gear anchor on top.