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Routes in The Bull Horn

Excrementally Weighted S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finely Grained Hands (a.k.a. FGH) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: [[105875148]], Bill Geist and [[14595]], May 2007
Page Views: 119 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Mar 22, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Start up the typical UEF grainy rock through some chunkiness (tread lightly) past a couple of bolts to a good stance and big hueco for the third clip. A hard, sequential move left to get to the forth clip leads into the thin crux on good rock. A nice rest can be found on the arete before launching into bigger holds taking you past a few more bolts to the anchor.

Location

This is the left route on the Bull Horn. It starts just uphill of Excrementally Weighted.

Protection

7 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Alec Luther
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10d
Alec Luther   Albuquerque, NM
  5.10d
Great Climb! I gave this a 10d rating because I believe the crux is height dependent. I'm 6'2'' with a positive ape index of about 1.5 inches. This seemed to give me an advantage getting to the clip on bolt 4. I didn't even think that was a crux until I read the description. The bottom is still cleaning up and there is a hollow rail right before bolt 4. Also, the large undercling near the chains appears to only have so much time left before it goes too. Helmet recommended. Sep 17, 2017
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
One of the better routes at UEF. DO IT! May 31, 2015